Child's Play

(12 routes)

Sunny North facing crag with shorter bouldery sport routes on good rock. About 10 minutes away from the TASC lodge along the Mangatoetoenui stream. All routes have sport anchors. Generally quite hot and protected from the wind.
Happy to adjust the grades as these get climbed more, just leave a comment.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
1550m
Aspect: 
North
Walk time: 
10 mins
Access: 

From the TASC lodge follow the access road to the DAC hut (the lowest lodge). Head down from the hut towards Ngauruhoe but stay on the right side of the ridge until you hit a small access track in between the rocks leading to the Mangatoetoenui river. From here the crag is 50 meters upstream.

Lat/Lon: 
-39.274762000000, 175.617387000000
NZMS260: 
T20 358 111
Topo50: 
BJ34 258 495
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
LD Little Dora 17 8m
0
wire representing trad
Cute little trad route to practice placing gear. Shared double bolt anchor on the top of the platform.
Wim Coosemans, Jon Graham, 2018
HP Hot Potato 22 8m
2.01
2bolts
V4/5 boulder on a blank wall with 2 bolts. Cool sequence. Shared anchor on the top of the platform.
Wim Coosemans, 2018
A Dustbowl 17 14m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Past 1 bolt up into the bowl, then bridge your way up. Either finish right on the anchor of Eureka or head straight up to the bollard.
Wim Coosemans, Jon Graham, 2018
B Eureka 17 12m
0
4bolts
Start in the overhang just left of Betelgeuse, find the clipping jug and head out left and up the slabby arete.
Jon Graham, Wim Coosemans, 2018
C Betelgeuse 22 13m
1.02
4bolts
The overhang, first climbed under a starry night. The corner/sidewall are out.
Wim Coosemans, 2018
D Meissa 16 13m
0
wire representing trad
The corner right of Betelgeuse. Shared anchor
Wim Coosemans, 2018
E Aimer sans amour 22 15m
2.01
5bolts
Crimpy start, delicate middle, burly finish. Excellent
Wim Coosemans, James Pullan, 2020
F Mouse Trap 20 16m
2.01
5bolts
Hard start leads to adventurous climbing on good holds. Easier to clean the route when the last person climbs it on a top rope.
Richard Graham, Wim Coosemans, 2020
G Alter Ego 24 15m
3
5bolts
The overhanging arete. A gym rats delight
Wim Coosemans, 2020
H Waffle Reunion 19 15m
1.02
5bolts
Right hand of the arrete. Bouldery start leads to easier slab.
Wim Coosemans, Sage Karson, 2020
BB Blind Mans Bluff 12 17m
0
wire representing trad
The slabs, has a walk of ledge 3/4 of the way up
Jenny Cossey, Richard Knott, 2018
SL Snakes and Ladders 15 17m
0
wire representing trad
Directly above the waterfall
Richard Knott, Jenny Cossey, 2018
UUID: 
7c09360f-4f08-4627-bd6a-86a5d6a3625d