From the north, Tukino is little more than a bump on the ridge that forms the crater rim of the Summit Plateau. As such, you could take in the summit as part of an enjoyable traverse of the crater rim from Glacier Knob to Te Heuheu. Climbing straight up out of the Te Heuheu valley at Whakapapa – a simple snow plod – will also lead you to the top.
The South West Face is spectacular and popular, albeit short and often massively rimed. Snow stakes may be more useful than ice screws. Descend the steep and wide gully to the west of the peak.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tukino Crater Rim | ||||||
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The steep inside wall of the crater rim, running west from Tukino Pk above |
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| Left Gully, 2,I | 2,I | 80m | ||||
A slightly shorter and less difficult climb than the Central Gully. Two pitches. |
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| Central Gully, 3,I | 3,I | 100m | ||||
The central gully to a small notch in the ridge just west of the peak. Two pitches. |
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| South Buttress, 2,I | 2,I | 150m | ||||
A series of steps, depending on season and snow depth. |
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