Tukino Pk

(4 routes)

From the north, Tukino is little more than a bump on the ridge that forms the crater rim of the Summit Plateau. As such, you could take in the summit as part of an enjoyable traverse of the crater rim from Glacier Knob to Te Heuheu. Climbing straight up out of the Te Heuheu valley at Whakapapa – a simple snow plod – will also lead you to the top.
The South West Face is spectacular and popular, albeit short and often massively rimed. Snow stakes may be more useful than ice screws. Descend the steep and wide gully to the west of the peak.

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
2721m
Lat/Lon: 
-39.266948930000, 175.576286320000
NZMS260: 
T20 323 121
Topo50: 
BJ34 223 504
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Tukino Crater Rim
0
The steep inside wall of the crater rim, running west from Tukino Pk above the Summit Plateau, can be a pleasant place to spend time climbing single pitch ice routes. Many lines were climbed by Graeme Dingle and Ray Button, 1974–75.
Left Gully I 2 80m
0
A slightly shorter and less difficult climb than the Central Gully. Two pitches.
Graeme Dingle, 1974
Central Gully I 3 100m
1.02
The central gully to a small notch in the ridge just west of the peak. Two pitches.
Graeme Dingle, 1974
South Buttress I 2 150m
0
A series of steps, depending on season and snow depth.