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Margaret's Mound

Type

A small rock opposite Margarets Leap. Anchor bolts were installed 2023 by Jono Clarke to provide some easier introductory mixed routes. All routes were first climbed on top-rope by Wellington members of NZAC. Splinter and Shredder were climbed on gear in June 2024. Donatello and Leonardo were top roped using a T-slot snow stake as an anchor. Anchors for each route and bolts are to be installed in the future. All route can be accessed to put up top rope or cleaned from the back. Scope for a few more routes to go up if the rock is good enough.
The four guys who first climbed here were all sporting Osprey Mutants. The climbs are inspired by Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles with the first route climbed named Splinter after Jono.

Image
Lat/lon
POINT (175.602071 -39.280679)
Topo50
BJ34 244 489
Access

Situated opposite Margarets Leap face. Best access is to ascend the ridge directly in front of the end of the road (left of the Aorangi (upper) tow shed, then traverse to the northern side of the crag. An alternative approach is up the Margaret's landing gully.

Accessed from
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Shredder, M4 M4 7m
1.02

Small traverse to get onto ledge. Climb up the crack and face. Pick placements are good once you find them. If doing on gear take small cams. Double hanger anchor.


  • P1
  • Mixed M4
  • 7m
  • Trad

 Splinter, M3 M3 6m
1.02

Good introduction to mixed/dry tooling. Limited gear placements. Set up anchor on Shredder.


  • P1
  • Mixed M3
  • 6m
  • Trad

 Leonardo, M3 M3 5m
0

Up the right side of the small face. More of a mixed boulder route. Set up top rope or anchor with snow stake until bolts are installed.


  • P1
  • Mixed M3
  • 5m

 Donatello, M3 M3 5m
0

Up the left side of the small face. More of a mixed boulder route. Set up top rope or anchor with snow stake until bolts are installed.


  • P1
  • Mixed M3
  • 5m

Comments
UUID
 
5c32d866-21a7-48c4-8a58-bc054d844995