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Whangaehu Bluff

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Type Name
Crag Hut Bluff


Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
Hut Bluff Hut BluffThe last great Exodus of the decade, 19 19 65m 3

Long time coming to completion first started in 2010 when hut re cladding project started but taken a while to clean loose and bolt but then trying to fine someone to be brave enough to walk in and climb it!
This is a 2 pitch climb of 60m bolted belays and has 5 bolts on it wires small mid cams size gear and is the first highest multi pitch rock route in the north island.
It starts out the back of the hut from the fixed hut guide wire on the up hill side climb down to a set of rap bolts safer to use a fixed line off hut anchor wire you can reach the bottom just with 2 60m ropes or it is two rappels with a single 60m via a bolt belay at the end of 1st pitch.
Alternatively you can either scramble down round from the east side then go round the buttress which is the Bog route!
the first bit a little sketchy for gear but goes there could be a more direct start but ran out of bolts at the time needs a bolt unless you brave!

  • P1
  • 19
  • 35m
  • 2

Pitch-1 19, 2 bolts, small and mid size gear, From the base move right towards a obvious off width chimney, start just before move up tend rightwards towards chimney passed a horizontal break then up to gain ledge then traverse left for roughly 10m towards a arete, move around to a stance then move upwards following a crack system to belay ledge. 2 bolts just before belay,

  • P2
  • 17
  • 30m
  • 3

Pitch-2 17 30m has 3 bolts to start with from belay follow up the weakness past 3 bolts nice climbing then onward to the top easier as you go up. from top belay scramble out on the first assent hut was used as runner and belay

 Bog Route, WI2 WI2

Sneaks around the Whangaehu Bluff below and just east of the hut. The toilet once formed the top belay, but is no longer so useful since it was moved.

  • P1
  • Water Ice WI2