These are the cliffs across the valley from the car park. The obvious ice lines have been climbed, but there is potential for some very difficult climbs to be completed. The first three routes are on the shorter left-hand section of the bluffs. Much potentual for good rock climbs, but some of the lava layers are shattered
Best approach is to descend to just under the prominate waterfall, then climb out to base of the cliffs.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
West of South Buttress, M3 | M3 | 40m | ||||
Face about 20ms left of the southern buttress. Ascend up through steep face. Some loose rock which can get frozen into place |
||||||
Point Eight, M4 | M4 | 80m | ||||
Start just to the south of the toe of the buttress left and below of Gully One. Up Left facing corner onto lead that basically goes straight up tending slightly to the left. A number of steps befor angle eases. Belay
Continue to trend up and leftward on snow fields at first with a couple of steps which provide some interest. |
||||||
Point Nine, M2 | M2 | 60m | ||||
Buttress left of Gully One. Climb buttress trending left. Fund mixed route. Climb snow fan to left of Gully One, with difficult step onto mixed ground
Climb through snow fields varying left with steep step to finish on upper snow fields. |
||||||
Gully One, WI1 | WI1 | 20m | ||||
left corner of wide basin half way along Northern Bluffs. Short |
||||||
Gully Two, WI2 | WI2 | 20m | ||||
Another line just to the right. |
||||||
Gully Three, WI2 | WI2 | 20m | ||||
Climb the right end of the wall, before the cliff line lengthens again. |
||||||
Irish Ice Express, WI2 | WI2 | |||||
Fairly straight forward climb near the northern end of the Northern Bluffs. Short steep section before easing off into bowl above. |
||||||
Bowel Wobbler, WI4 | WI4 | 50m | ||||
More committing. A steep first pitch up to easier ground. A second pitch up a steep (vertical) ice lead eases off onto a slab, and right to easy ground. |
||||||
Unclimbed Ice Project, WI6 | WI6 | 50m | ||||
This forms very briefly went he sun is at a low angle. A superb challenge on very steep ground. Grade a guess |