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Northern Bluffs

Type
Altitude
1700m

These are the cliffs across the valley from the car park. The obvious ice lines have been climbed, but there is potential for some very difficult climbs to be completed. The first three routes are on the shorter left-hand section of the bluffs. Much potentual for good rock climbs, but some of the lava layers are shattered

Image
Walktime
20 min
Aspect
South East
Access

Best approach is to descend to just under the prominate waterfall, then climb out to base of the cliffs.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 West of South Buttress, M3 M3 40m
0

  • P1
  • Mixed M3
  • 40m

Face about 20ms left of the southern buttress. Ascend up through steep face. Some loose rock which can get frozen into place


 Point Eight, M4 M4 80m
0

  • P1
  • Mixed M4
  • 45m

Start just to the south of the toe of the buttress left and below of Gully One. Up Left facing corner onto lead that basically goes straight up tending slightly to the left. A number of steps befor angle eases. Belay


  • P2
  • Mixed M2
  • 35m

Continue to trend up and leftward on snow fields at first with a couple of steps which provide some interest.


 Point Nine, M2 M2 60m
1.02

  • P1
  • Mixed M2
  • 30m

Buttress left of Gully One. Climb buttress trending left. Fund mixed route. Climb snow fan to left of Gully One, with difficult step onto mixed ground


  • P2
  • Mixed M2
  • 30m

Climb through snow fields varying left with steep step to finish on upper snow fields.


 Gully One, WI1 WI1 20m
0

  • P1
  • Water Ice WI1
  • 20m

left corner of wide basin half way along Northern Bluffs. Short


 Gully Two, WI2 WI2 20m
0

  • P1
  • Water Ice WI2
  • 20m

Another line just to the right.


 Gully Three, WI2 WI2 20m
0

  • P1
  • Water Ice WI2
  • 20m

Climb the right end of the wall, before the cliff line lengthens again.


 Irish Ice Express, WI2 WI2
0

  • P1
  • Water Ice WI2

Fairly straight forward climb near the northern end of the Northern Bluffs. Short steep section before easing off into bowl above.


 Bowel Wobbler, WI4 WI4 50m
1.02

  • P1
  • Water Ice WI4
  • 50m

More committing. A steep first pitch up to easier ground. A second pitch up a steep (vertical) ice lead eases off onto a slab, and right to easy ground.


 Unclimbed Ice Project, WI6 WI6 50m
0

  • P1
  • Water Ice WI6
  • 50m

This forms very briefly went he sun is at a low angle. A superb challenge on very steep ground. Grade a guess


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