Northern Bluffs

(9 routes)

These are the cliffs across the valley from the car park. The obvious ice lines have been climbed, but there is potential for some very difficult climbs to be completed. The first three routes are on the shorter left-hand section of the bluffs. Much potentual for good rock climbs, but some of the lava layers are shattered

Altitude: 
1700m
Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Aspect: 
South East
Walk time: 
20 min
Access: 

Best approach is to descend to just under the prominate waterfall, then climb out to base of the cliffs.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
West of South Buttress M3 40m
0
Face about 20ms left of the southern buttress. Ascend up through steep face. Some loose rock which can get frozen into place
Ollie Touhy, Callen Kennedy 29/7/2007
Point Eight M4, M2 80m
0
Start just to the south of the toe of the buttress left and below of Gully One. Up Left facing corner onto lead that basically goes straight up tending slightly to the left. A number of steps befor angle eases. Belay
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1M445mNo
 

Start just to the south of the toe of the buttress left and below of Gully One. Up Left facing corner onto lead that basically goes straight up tending slightly to the left. A number of steps befor angle eases. Belay

2M235mNo
 

Continue to trend up and leftward on snow fields at first with a couple of steps which provide some interest.

Don French
Point Nine M2, M2 60m
1.02
Buttress left of Gully One. Climb buttress trending left. Fund mixed route. Climb snow fan to left of Gully One, with difficult step onto mixed ground
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1M230mNo
 

Buttress left of Gully One. Climb buttress trending left. Fund mixed route. Climb snow fan to left of Gully One, with difficult step onto mixed ground

2M230mNo
 

Climb through snow fields varying left with steep step to finish on upper snow fields.

Oli Touhy, Callen Kennedy 15/7/2007
Gully One WI1 20m
0
2
left corner of wide basin half way along Northern Bluffs. Short
unknown
Gully Two 20m
0
Another line just to the right.
Gully Three WI2 20m
0
Climb the right end of the wall, before the cliff line lengthens again.
Irish Ice Express WI2
0
2
Fairly straight forward climb near the northern end of the Northern Bluffs. Short steep section before easing off into bowl above.
Bowel Wobbler WI4 50m
1.02
2
More committing. A steep first pitch up to easier ground. A second pitch up a steep (vertical) ice lead eases off onto a slab, and right to easy ground.
Unclimbed Ice Project WI6 50m
0
This forms very briefly went he sun is at a low angle. A superb challenge on very steep ground. Grade a guess
beleive to be unclimbed
UUID: 
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