From the Tūkino ski field car park at 1700m, climb the rocky spur south of the upper rope tow. Avoid the gully on your left (south) at all costs; it can harbour a significant avalanche hazard. A poled route leads up in a westerly direction, past a large lava outcrop (the ‘Luncheon Rock’) and crossing several gullies, to a prominent marker pole at 2150m. From the marker pole, the NZAC Whangaehu Hut can be seen about 100m below to the south, perched on a spectacular bluff above the Whangaehu River. From the marker pole, take a rising traverse north-west. The most direct route is to aim for Button’s Buttress, the large bluff on the south side of the glacier proper, and then climb up a wide snow gully to reach the Summit Plateau north of Matihao.
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