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From Tūkino via Mangatoetoenui Glacier

Grade
1,I
Length
900m
Quality
0
Located on

From the Tūkino ski field car park at 1700m, climb the rocky spur south of the upper rope tow. Avoid the gully on your left (south) at all costs; it can harbour a significant avalanche hazard. A poled route leads up in a westerly direction, past a large lava outcrop (the ‘Luncheon Rock’) and crossing several gullies, to a prominent marker pole at 2150m. From the marker pole, the NZAC Whangaehu Hut can be seen about 100m below to the south, perched on a spectacular bluff above the Whangaehu River.
From the marker pole, take a rising traverse north-west. The most direct route is to aim for Button’s Buttress, the large bluff on the south side of the glacier proper, and then climb up a wide snow gully to reach the Summit Plateau north of Matihao.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 1
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • 900m

Comments
UUID
 
dcce07e3-154c-4850-a445-b9b8a9bc8d70