Numb Buttress | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

2150m

Part of

Also known as Pink Floyd Buttress, this west-facing outlier of First Pinnacle has mostly mixed routes of varying length and difficulty on generally good rock. Descend off the back of the gendarme to a small col, and down its south side. The ﬁrst four routes start at the toe of the buttress, meeting about halfway up the ridge.

Walktime

30-60 min

Aspect

South West

Lat/lon

POINT (175.56946278 -39.25252767)

Topo50

BJ34 217 521

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
	Wish You Were Here, I,2	I,2	150m	0
P1 Alpine (Technical) 2 Alpine (Commitment) I 150m Mostly rock climbing on the north edge of the lower buttress.
	Easy Street, I,1,WI2	I,1,WI2	150m	0
Alpine grade 1 is misleading in icy conditions. Fully iced, it can be WI2 with some trickier sections. P1 Alpine (Technical) 1 Alpine (Commitment) I Water Ice WI2 150m The central gully.
	Quirke of Fate, I,2	I,2	150m	0
P1 Alpine (Technical) 2 Alpine (Commitment) I 150m An alternate start to the gully, up the buttress just to the right.
	Hoare Frost, I,2	I,2	150m	0
P1 Alpine (Technical) 2 Alpine (Commitment) I 150m A vague gully, then up the right edge of the buttress.
	Crazy Diamond Couloir, I,2	I,2	140m	0
P1 Alpine (Technical) 2 Alpine (Commitment) I 140m Tackles a vague rib.
	Comfortably Numb, I,2	I,2	120m	1.02
P1 Alpine (Technical) 2 Alpine (Commitment) I 120m The couloir on the left side of the main face. Climb up to join the ridge.
	Hokey Pokey, I,3	I,3	120m	1.02
P1 Alpine (Technical) 3 Alpine (Commitment) I 120m An excellent route, taking the obvious curving line up and across the face.
	Learning to Fly, I,4	I,4	100m	0
A direct and committing line. P1 Alpine (Technical) 2 Alpine (Commitment) I 50m Climb the first pitch of Hokey Pokey. P2 Alpine (Technical) 4 Alpine (Commitment) II 50m Some steep, hard climbing is followed by a long run out to the top.
	Delicate Sound of Thunder, I,3	I,3	120m	1.02
P1 Alpine (Technical) 3 Alpine (Commitment) I 120m Climb just left of the arete, joining it a pitch from the top. Requires good ice cover – or a willingness to tackle extremely compact, run-out rock.
	A Momentary Lapse of Reason, II,4,14	II,4,14	120m	1.02
Good climbing on the arête, with a tricky crux. Can be climbed in summer as a rock route. P1 40m Climb the arête to belay below the first steep section. P2 14 Alpine (Technical) 4 Alpine (Commitment) II 40m The next moves, heading up and right onto very compact rock, are the crux. P3 40m The final pitch is a scramble to the top.

Comments

UUID

879141fa-383a-4ee4-ac93-6da0b57a2155