First Pinnacle

(6 routes)

The highest of the three main pinnacles. First Pinnacle also has several opportunities on its northern and eastern sides, but you’ll almost always need to get up early to avoid hot, soft conditions on the northern aspects.

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
2234m
Lat/Lon: 
-39.251863020000, 175.571007730000
NZMS260: 
T20 319 138
Topo50: 
BJ34 219 521
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1 Zig-Zag Gully 160m
0
Only really much of a zig-zag in summer. Leave Gully 2 where it turns towards the col, and follow the broad, shallow gully to a notch in the ridge between First Pinnacle and the gendarme at the top of its West Ridge.
2 West Face
0
Climb out of Zig-Zag Gully and direct to the top.
3 West Ridge 130m
0
Gain the col beyond Pink Floyd Buttress from either side, and continue up the ridge to the summit. Alternatively (but significantly harder), start with Wish You Were Here on the toe of Pink Floyd Buttress.
4 South East Face 250m
0
In the right conditions this looks to be a nice, straightforward climb.
5 North East Ridge 350m
0
A good line that unfortunately tends to soften very quickly once the sun hits it.
6 North Face 350m
0
A gully runs direct to the summit. Again, watch for soft conditions.