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East Side

Type
Altitude
1650m
Part of

The eastern side of Mead’s Wall is altogether higher and more spectacular, with plenty of opportunities for more climbing.

Walktime
15 min
Aspect
East
Lat/lon
POINT (175.56173801 -39.23630852)
Approach

To reach the routes on the back side, walk up to the north (left-hand) end of the wall and scramble down a bouldery gully (not the loose scree gully at the lowest point) for about 20 metres.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Not Quite Dolly, 16 16 30m 12
2.01

  • P1
  • 16
  • 30m
  • 12

 Alacrán, 22 22 12
2.01

  • P1
  • 22
  • 12

Two pitches


 Unnamed, 15 15 18m 11
3

  • P1
  • 15
  • 18m
  • 11

 Unnamed, 19 19 20m
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 20m
  • Trad

 Smaug’s Eyebrow, 18 18 7
1.02

  • P1
  • 18
  • 7

 Leftwaffe, 19 19 46m 4
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 26m
  • 4
  • Trad

The wall about 20m left of Left Route. Climb straight up towards the big cave at two-thirds height, before tackling the overhanging cookie on its left side. Top out in the cave. Double bolt belay is a couple of metres to the left.


  • P2
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 4
  • Trad

Up the left hand arete. Trad belay from the top of the wall.


 The Voyager, 21 21 45m 17
2.01

  • P1
  • 21
  • 45m
  • 17

1 1Left Route, 18 18 18m 4
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 18m
  • 4

Four bolts to the double bolt anchor at half height. The bottom hanger may be a bit loose. Good holds but quite pumpy.


3 3Top Left, 18 18 20m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • Trad

From the belay, climb to the top of the wall on natural gear, climbing first out left and then wandering back right again. Not too flash.


2 2Right Route, 19 19 18m 4
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 18m
  • 4

A similarly styled route to Left Route, finishing at the same belay.


4 4Upper Wall, 20 20 20m
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 20m
  • Trad

Climb from the belay to the top of the wall on natural gear. Belay off a large block on the ridge.


 Flatulent Propulsion, 21 21 12
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 12

 Unknown, 21 21 13
2.01

  • P1
  • 21
  • 13

 Green the Fields of Envy, 18 18 20m 7
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 7

 Red the Bloody Lane, 18 18 20m 7
1.02

  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 7

Comments
UUID
 
584c2cdd-5f78-4dfc-bb77-841fe42d1095