2. NZ
  3. North Island
  4. Tongariro
  5. Mead’s Wall
  6. East Side

East Side

(15 routes)

The eastern side of Mead’s Wall is altogether higher and more spectacular, with plenty of opportunities for more climbing.

Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
1650m
Aspect: 
East
Walk time: 
15 min
Access: 

To reach the routes on the back side, walk up to the north (left-hand) end of the wall and scramble down a bouldery gully (not the loose scree gully at the lowest point) for about 20 metres.

New Zealand map

Map, Topo

Lat/Lon: 
-39.236308520000, 175.561738010000
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Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Not Quite Dolly 16 30m
2.01
Ryan Leong, 24 November
Alacrán 22
2.01
Two pitches
Gregg Beisly, May 2019
Unnamed 15 18m
3
 11bolts
Annie Beisly, 7 February 2021
Unnamed 19 20m
0
 wire representing trad
Gregg Beisly, Ryan Leong, 26 March 2021
Smaug’s Eyebrow 18
1.02
 7bolts
Toby Beisly, January 2020
Leftwaffe 19 ,18 46m
0
 8bolts wire representing trad
The wall about 20m left of Left Route. Climb straight up towards the big cave at two-thirds height, before tackling the overhanging cookie on its left side. Top out in the cave. Double bolt belay is a couple of metres to the left.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11926m4Yes
 

The wall about 20m left of Left Route. Climb straight up towards the big cave at two-thirds height, before tackling the overhanging cookie on its left side. Top out in the cave. Double bolt belay is a couple of metres to the left.
21820m4Yes
 

Up the left hand arete. Trad belay from the top of the wall.

Tom Wilson, Brigid Borlase 2007
The Voyager 21 45m
2.01
 17bolts
Gregg Beisly, January 2020
1 Left Route 18 18m
0
 4bolts
Four bolts to the double bolt anchor at half height. The bottom hanger may be a bit loose. Good holds but quite pumpy.
Paul Rogers, 1999
3 Top Left 18 20m
0
 wire representing trad
From the belay, climb to the top of the wall on natural gear, climbing first out left and then wandering back right again. Not too flash.
Kester Brown
2 Right Route 19 18m
0
 4bolts
A similarly styled route to Left Route, finishing at the same belay.
Paul Rogers, 1999
4 Upper Wall 20 20m
0
 wire representing trad
Climb from the belay to the top of the wall on natural gear. Belay off a large block on the ridge.
Sean Campbell
Flatulent Proposition 21
1.02
Layton Hockey, January 2020
Unknown 21
2.01
 13bolts
Gregg Beisly, January 2020
Green the Fields of Envy 18 20m
0
 7bolts
Gregg Beisly, May 2020
Red the Bloody Lane 18 20m
1.02
 7bolts
Gregg Beisly, February 2020
UUID: 
584c2cdd-5f78-4dfc-bb77-841fe42d1095