East Side | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

1650m

Part of

The eastern side of Mead’s Wall is altogether higher and more spectacular, with plenty of opportunities for more climbing.

Walktime

15 min

Aspect

East

Lat/lon

-39.23630852,175.56173801, NZ Topo Map

Approach

To reach the routes on the back side, walk up to the north (left-hand) end of the wall and scramble down a bouldery gully (not the loose scree gully at the lowest point) for about 20 metres.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Not Quite Dolly, 16	16	30m	12	2.01
P1 16 30m 12
	Chalet Dwellers, 18	18	0m		0
P1 15 P2 18
	Alacrán, 22	22	0m	12	2.01
P1 22 12 Two pitches
	Hard Knock Life, 15	15	18m	11	3
P1 15 18m 11 Climb the buttress to a double bolt belay.
	Against a Sea of Trouble, 20	20	20m	1	2.01
P1 20 20m 1 Trad From the Hard Knock Life belay, climb slightly right and up to a large ledge. From the right end of the ledge climb the corner and steeply up past a bolt to the anchors. Can be combined with Hard Knock Life as one 38m pitch.
	Smaug’s Eyebrow, 18	18	20m	7	1.02
P1 18 20m 7 Stroll up on generous holds to a slightly more fiery finish.
	Leftwaffe, 19	19	46m	4	0
P1 19 26m 4 Trad The wall about 20m left of Left Route. Climb straight up towards the big cave at two-thirds height, before tackling the overhanging cookie on its left side. Top out in the cave. Double bolt belay is a couple of metres to the left. P2 18 20m 4 Trad Up the left hand arete. Trad belay from the top of the wall.
	The Voyager, 21	21	45m	17	2.01
P1 21 45m 17
1	1Left Route, 18	18	18m	4	0
P1 18 18m 4 Four bolts to the double bolt anchor at half height. The bottom hanger may be a bit loose. Good holds but quite pumpy.
3	3Top Left, 18	18	20m		0
P1 18 20m Trad From the belay, climb to the top of the wall on natural gear, climbing first out left and then wandering back right again. Not too flash.
2	2Right Route, 19	19	18m	4	0
P1 19 18m 4 A similarly styled route to Left Route, finishing at the same belay.
4	4Upper Wall, 20	20	20m		0
P1 20 20m Trad Climb from the belay to the top of the wall on natural gear. Belay off a large block on the ridge.
	Mighty Intrusion, 21	21	28m	13	2.01
P1 21 28m 13 A hard start to gain the strange extrusion and a rest. The climbing slowly intensifies again to a couple of sharp pulls on to the upper slab.
	Flatulent Propulsion, 21	21	0m	12	1.02
P1 21 12
	Green the Fields of Envy, 18	18	20m	7	0
P1 18 20m 7
	Red the Bloody Lane, 18	18	20m	7	1.02
P1 18 20m 7

Comments

UUID

584c2cdd-5f78-4dfc-bb77-841fe42d1095