Te Arawa Right

(13 routes)

Further up the valley from Hotu is a long and low set of cliffs known as Te Arawa. The rock is very solid, but due to their south-facing aspect the cliffs tend stay fairly cold except in the heat of summer. Staff from OPC developed these cliffs from 1973 onwards. They are used for instruction and harbour some excellent climbs up to 10 metres high. The cliff is described in two parts – a short, scrappy area joins the pair. These parts are known as Te Arawa Left and Te Arawa Right. There is a great deal more unclimbed cliff further right again. Climbs are described from left to right.

Altitude: 
1400m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South
Walk time: 
45 min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1 Final Examination 15
0
wire representing trad
A short layback or jam crack.
2 Shit Route 15
0
wire representing trad
Scramble up boulders to the obvious crack and climb this to the top.
3 Wild Colonial Boy 16
0
wire representing trad
Climb ledges and overhangs up the large buttress left of Blue Bottle to join that route.
4 Blue Bottle 15
0
wire representing trad
An interesting climb up cracks.
5 Gripe Pipe Thin 14
0
wire representing trad
The overhanging wide crack. Climb onto the ledge then commit yourself to chimneying to get onto another big ledge. Finish up the wide crack above.
6 Garden Path 13
0
wire representing trad
From the foot of the buttress, traverse right to the overhang. Climb straight up then back left through the vege to join the top of Gripe Pipe Thin. Climb the wall left of the crack.
7 Wall of Shadows 16
0
wire representing trad
A thin layback and then the crack at the top.
8 R.I.P. 13
0
wire representing trad
Climb easily to the ledge with the large block resting on it. From here climb the two cracks in the corner (crux) then more easily to the top.
9 Heavy Breathing 15
0
wire representing trad
Up the smooth wall with one finger hole to the right of R.I.P. Climb the wall or traverse around to the right, then up small overhangs to the top.
10 Doug and Ding’s Climb 16
0
wire representing trad
Climb the left-tending slab until under an overhang. A strenuous move through this, then finish easily straight to the top.
11 Elfingrotto 10
0
wire representing trad
Up, under and over the boulder-choked chimney.
12 Magical Mystery Tour 14
1.02
wire representing trad
A good climb. The thin crack in the centre of the wall. Stepping right onto the edge at half height makes it easier.
13 Dilemma 12
0
wire representing trad
Up square-cut holds on the pinnacle of rock below the descent gully.