Te Arawa Right | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

1400m

Part of

Further up the valley from Hotu is a long and low set of cliffs known as Te Arawa. The rock is very solid, but due to their south-facing aspect the cliffs tend stay fairly cold except in the heat of summer. Staff from OPC developed these cliffs from 1973 onwards. They are used for instruction and harbour some excellent climbs up to 10 metres high. The cliff is described in two parts – a short, scrappy area joins the pair. These parts are known as Te Arawa Left and Te Arawa Right. There is a great deal more unclimbed cliff further right again. Climbs are described from left to right.

Walktime

45 min

Aspect

South

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Quality
1	1Final Examination, 15	15	0
P1 15 Trad A short layback or jam crack.
2	2Shit Route, 15	15	0
P1 15 Trad Scramble up boulders to the obvious crack and climb this to the top.
3	3Wild Colonial Boy, 16	16	0
P1 16 Trad Climb ledges and overhangs up the large buttress left of Blue Bottle to join that route.
4	4Blue Bottle, 15	15	0
P1 15 Trad An interesting climb up cracks.
5	5Gripe Pipe Thin, 14	14	0
P1 14 Trad The overhanging wide crack. Climb onto the ledge then commit yourself to chimneying to get onto another big ledge. Finish up the wide crack above.
6	6Garden Path, 13	13	0
P1 13 Trad From the foot of the buttress, traverse right to the overhang. Climb straight up then back left through the vege to join the top of Gripe Pipe Thin. Climb the wall left of the crack.
7	7Wall of Shadows, 16	16	0
P1 16 Trad A thin layback and then the crack at the top.
8	8R.I.P., 13	13	0
P1 13 Trad Climb easily to the ledge with the large block resting on it. From here climb the two cracks in the corner (crux) then more easily to the top.
9	9Heavy Breathing, 15	15	0
P1 15 Trad Up the smooth wall with one finger hole to the right of R.I.P. Climb the wall or traverse around to the right, then up small overhangs to the top.
10	10Doug and Ding’s Climb, 16	16	0
P1 16 Trad Climb the left-tending slab until under an overhang. A strenuous move through this, then finish easily straight to the top.
11	11Elfingrotto, 10	10	0
P1 10 Trad Up, under and over the boulder-choked chimney.
12	12Magical Mystery Tour, 14	14	1.02
P1 14 Trad A good climb. The thin crack in the centre of the wall. Stepping right onto the edge at half height makes it easier.
13	13Dilemma, 12	12	0
P1 12 Trad Up square-cut holds on the pinnacle of rock below the descent gully.

Comments

UUID

d1c4daa7-0e7b-4907-928b-4621f8f0d54d