Te Arawa Left

(12 routes)

Further up the valley from Hotu is a long and low set of cliffs known as Te Arawa. The rock is very solid, but due to their south-facing aspect the cliffs tend stay fairly cold except in the heat of summer. Staff from OPC developed these cliffs from 1973 onwards. They are used for instruction and harbour some excellent climbs up to 10 metres high. The cliff is described in two parts – a short, scrappy area joins the pair. These parts are known as Te Arawa Left and Te Arawa Right. There is a great deal more unclimbed cliff further right again. Climbs are described from left to right.

Altitude: 
1400m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South
Walk time: 
45 min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Futtichs End 8
0
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A short wiggling chimney.
2 No Sweat 12
0
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Up the hand-crack in the corner. Bridge or jam.
3 Pinnochio 15
1.02
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Straight up the obvious pocked arête on jugs. A great position.
4 Guts 16
1.02
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A great route up the fist crack in the recess.
5 Sweat 10
0
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The wide and easy crack on the left of the gully.
6 Tears 11
0
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The right hand crack in the gully.
7 Jam Butties 16
0
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Climb Tears until it is possible to step into the hand crack in the right wall. Climb this to the top.
8 Debbie’s Dilemma Direct 16
0
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Climb the small overhang to the left and join Debbie’s Dilemma at the ledge.
9 Debbie’s Dilemma 11
0
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Start in the chimney/recess and climb onto the ledge at 4m. Move right to mantleshelf onto another ledge. Climb the steep pocked wall for a few feet and then left onto the arête to the top.
10 Snot 12
0
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The obvious gully.
11 Super Snot 14
0
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Climb the awkward overhang then move out right.
12 Sweeney 12
0
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Climb the crack with the flake in it, then out left on huge jugs. There are a number of short, unnamed routes in the scrappy bay between the two sections of the cliff.
UUID: 
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