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Te Arawa Left

Type
Altitude
1400m
Part of

Further up the valley from Hotu is a long and low set of cliffs known as Te Arawa. The rock is very solid, but due to their south-facing aspect the cliffs tend stay fairly cold except in the heat of summer. Staff from OPC developed these cliffs from 1973 onwards. They are used for instruction and harbour some excellent climbs up to 10 metres high. The cliff is described in two parts – a short, scrappy area joins the pair. These parts are known as Te Arawa Left and Te Arawa Right. There is a great deal more unclimbed cliff further right again. Climbs are described from left to right.

Walktime
45 min
Aspect
South
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
1 1Futtichs End, 8 8
0

  • P1
  • 8
  • Trad

A short wiggling chimney.


2 2No Sweat, 12 12
0

  • P1
  • 12
  • Trad

Up the hand-crack in the corner. Bridge or jam.


3 3Pinnochio, 15 15
1.02

  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

Straight up the obvious pocked arête on jugs. A great position.


4 4Guts, 16 16
1.02

  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

A great route up the fist crack in the recess.


5 5Sweat, 10 10
0

  • P1
  • 10
  • Trad

The wide and easy crack on the left of the gully.


6 6Tears, 11 11
0

  • P1
  • 11
  • Trad

The right hand crack in the gully.


7 7Jam Butties, 16 16
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

Climb Tears until it is possible to step into the hand crack in the right wall. Climb this to the top.


8 8Debbie’s Dilemma Direct, 16 16
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

Climb the small overhang to the left and join Debbie’s Dilemma at the ledge.


9 9Debbie’s Dilemma, 11 11
0

  • P1
  • 11
  • Trad

Start in the chimney/recess and climb onto the ledge at 4m. Move right to mantleshelf onto another ledge. Climb the steep pocked wall for a few feet and then left onto the arête to the top.


10 10Snot, 12 12
0

  • P1
  • 12
  • Trad

The obvious gully.


11 11Super Snot, 14 14
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

Climb the awkward overhang then move out right.


12 12Sweeney, 12 12
0

  • P1
  • 12
  • Trad

Climb the crack with the flake in it, then out left on huge jugs. There are a number of short, unnamed routes in the scrappy bay between the two sections of the cliff.


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