Further up the valley from Hotu is a long and low set of cliffs known as Te Arawa. The rock is very solid, but due to their south-facing aspect the cliffs tend stay fairly cold except in the heat of summer. Staff from OPC developed these cliffs from 1973 onwards. They are used for instruction and harbour some excellent climbs up to 10 metres high. The cliff is described in two parts – a short, scrappy area joins the pair. These parts are known as Te Arawa Left and Te Arawa Right. There is a great deal more unclimbed cliff further right again. Climbs are described from left to right.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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1 | 1Futtichs End, 8 | 8 | |||||
A short wiggling chimney. |
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2 | 2No Sweat, 12 | 12 | |||||
Up the hand-crack in the corner. Bridge or jam. |
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3 | 3Pinnochio, 15 | 15 | |||||
Straight up the obvious pocked arête on jugs. A great position. |
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4 | 4Guts, 16 | 16 | |||||
A great route up the fist crack in the recess. |
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5 | 5Sweat, 10 | 10 | |||||
The wide and easy crack on the left of the gully. |
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6 | 6Tears, 11 | 11 | |||||
The right hand crack in the gully. |
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7 | 7Jam Butties, 16 | 16 | |||||
Climb Tears until it is possible to step into the hand crack in the right wall. Climb this to the top. |
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8 | 8Debbie’s Dilemma Direct, 16 | 16 | |||||
Climb the small overhang to the left and join Debbie’s Dilemma at the ledge. |
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9 | 9Debbie’s Dilemma, 11 | 11 | |||||
Start in the chimney/recess and climb onto the ledge at 4m. Move right to mantleshelf onto another ledge. Climb the steep pocked wall for a few feet and then left onto the arête to the top. |
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10 | 10Snot, 12 | 12 | |||||
The obvious gully. |
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11 | 11Super Snot, 14 | 14 | |||||
Climb the awkward overhang then move out right. |
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12 | 12Sweeney, 12 | 12 | |||||
Climb the crack with the flake in it, then out left on huge jugs. There are a number of short, unnamed routes in the scrappy bay between the two sections of the cliff. |