Pukekaikiore Lower Tier Right

(14 routes)

Of the two tiers of cliff, the lower is much the friendlier, with clean slabs and appealing cracklines beckoning amidst the vegetation.
To descend, scramble down vegetated banks at either end of the cliff. Choose the end closest to where your climb tops out, but be wary of getting bluffed. There is a better track at the west end of the cliff, at the downstream end of the valley. An abseil descent is possible from the top of Ta-Lo, which will take you back to the track.
Climbs are described from left to right.

Altitude: 
1300m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 90 Degrees In My Shades 21 30m
1.02
wire representing trad
An excellent climb up a system of clean cracks followed by a small groove. Start on the left of the big corner and climb past two pegs (be very wary of these) as you move right on good holds across the bulging wall to a ledge. To reach the next ledge climb the crack on the left (crux), then finish up a layback/jam crack.
Chris Morris, Robin Cooper (yo-yoed), 20 January 1985; first free ascent: Grant Davidson, Greg Brosnan, 10 November 1985
2 Big Greenie 15 40m
0
wire representing trad
Surprisingly good if you ever find it dry, apparently. Begin at the bottom of the dark – and normally damp – indentation at the left end of this wall. Climb a short chimney on the left, then either move right into the main corner system or, alternatively, up parallel cracks in the face to the right, and then back left into the main corner. Take the corner easily to a small ledge and climb the prominent hand crack. Finish up steep bulges to reach easier ground.
Merv English, Easter 1974
3 Gossamer Groove 17 40m
0
wire representing trad
A few metres right of Big Greenie is a phallic spike of rock. Protection is hard to arrange on initial broken ground to the base of a prominent groove. Continue up the groove to a ledge, and escape the ledge either up the thin wall to the left, or by moving right into the easier but vegetated groove.
Robbie McBirney, Cliff Smith, 14 April 1974
4 Vege Groove 15 ,14 40m
0
wire representing trad
Best climbed as two pitches.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11520mYes
 

Climb groove systems, heading for the vegetated groove right of Gossamer Groove. Climb this groove to a spike, then traverse a few metres right to a ledge.

21420mYes
 

Finish up the slab above, or alternatively take the top of Jemmett’s Jam Crack at grade 17.

Rick McGregor, Ted Quinn, Adrienne Jacka, 28 September 1975
5 Jemmetts Jam Crack 17 40m
1.02
wire representing trad
A remarkably straight line, with a nice jam crack at half height. Start directly below prominent flakes that stick out like the bread of a sandwich. Climb the wall into a groove and up to the crack separating the flakes. Climb this crack and the wall above, past an antique leeper piton, exiting right onto a ledge at the top.
Pete Jemmett, 1973
6 Grease Trap 14 ,14 55m
0
wire representing trad
Although it is described here as a variation on the next, more direct line, this was probably the original route on the cliff, climbed as early as 1965. Climb up and right to join Vee Grovel And Groovey below its first belay.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11430mYes
 

Although it is described here as a variation on the next, more direct line, this was probably the original route on the cliff, climbed as early as 1965. Climb up and right to join Vee Grovel And Groovey below its first belay.

21425mYes
 

Continue up Vee Grovel And Groovey.

First ascent unknown
7 Vee Groove 16 40m
0
wire representing trad
Start as for Jemmett’s Jam Crack until the V-groove is reached. Climb this (crux), exiting right at the top on good holds. Delicate moves up a slab lead to easier ground.
Rick McGregor, Clive de Vos, 15 May 1974
8 Vee Grovel And Groovey 16 ,14 55m
0
wire representing trad
Start a few metres left of the lowest point of the crag, at a sort of broken rib. Climb the wall immediately left of this rib, over thin ground to reach easier going up broken grooves. Belay on a ledge directly beneath a small roof.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11630mYes
 

Start a few metres left of the lowest point of the crag, at a sort of broken rib. Climb the wall immediately left of this rib, over thin ground to reach easier going up broken grooves. Belay on a ledge directly beneath a small roof.

21425mYes
 

Climb straight up from the ledge and left under the overhang on to a rib. Climb up into a V-chimney and out from it to the right. A short wall is surmounted to reach easier ground and the top.

Graeme Dingle, 1973
9 Cirrus Minor 17 ,10 50m
1.02
wire representing trad
Climb to the large vegetated groove, which leads left past the overhang and up to the crux slab move on to a vegetated belay ledge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11740mYes
 

Climb to the large vegetated groove, which leads left past the overhang and up to the crux slab move on to a vegetated belay ledge.

21010mYes
 

Scramble easily on up right of the belay to the top of the cliff.

Rick McGregor, Peter Newton, Bryce Martin, 3 April 1976
10 Pow R Toc H 13 ,21 50m
1.02
wire representing trad
Once something of a test piece. The short sequence of technical hand-jamming takes the prime position through the roof.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11320mYes
 

Start up Cirrus Minor, and climb awkward sloping formations to reach a bush below the crack in the roof. Protection is tricky to find.

22130mYes
 

The crack through the overhang (crux) and groove above. Climb past two bulges of vegetation, turning the last on the right.

Rick McGregor, Bryce Martin, 7 December 1975
11 The Tempest 20 50m
2.01
5bolts wire representing trad
Fine moves on clean solid rock. Start up Cirrus Minor and move right to the arête. Use the crack (small CDs), then climb the arête itself past five bolts with hangers.
Grant Davidson, Anna Jones, 28 December 1990
12 Powderfingers 22
0
wire representing trad
About 30m further right from the last climb is a black wall with two cracks in it. This is the finger crack.
Robin Cooper, Robert Hole, 30 January 1981
13 Marginal Pro 23
0
wire representing trad
An eliminate using only the thinner crack, avoiding holds on Grantchester Meadows. A pre-placed peg was employed for protection but it’s not there any more.
Robin Cooper, early 1980s
14 Grantchester Meadows 16 40m
0
wire representing trad
Start below the black wall in a small recess in the bottom buttress. Choose the easiest way possible up the buttress, veering right on the more vegetated ground. Traverse left at the second major piece of rock, then straight up to the top.
Robin Cooper, Robert Hole, 30 January 1981
UUID: 
85bfce30-d406-4be5-9c0f-1e8ebefcf4fb