Pukekaikiore Lower Tier Parc Lane

Climb from the toe of the buttress up one of the grooves – or via blocky ledges just to the left – to a good belay stance at the base of the upper headwall.

The thin crack in the left wall of the obvious peapod groove. Then easy ground to the top.

The peapod groove itself is climbed by bridging and using holds on the edges.

A left-facing corner is capped by a small roof. Above this is a narrow groove.

Immediately right of Karitane Smiles is another short left-facing corner. Climb this until you are below the roof, then make a step left (crux) to establish yourself on a small ledge. Climb the short, wide crack above and then the easy corner to the top. A more strenuous variation start climbs the corner to the left of the normal start, and through the roof to end up at the small ledge.

Climb the twin grooves. Take plenty of CDs.

The groove is bridged to the top.

An interesting and technical top-rope climb on the arête. Well worth the effort.

The obvious inclined wall on the right of the buttress. Cracks on the small face are climbed to the belay ledge. A fun first lead.

A wonderful route. Start from the Lic-Pa belay stance and climb the left side of the headwall via the twin cracks and a single crack above until a big spike belay is reached. Either finish over the spike and up right, or abseil off.

The wall and thin cracks. Trend right past a bolt to the overlap of Parc Lane. Climb through this overlap (crux) on to the steep wall above, and continue to the top past another bolt.

Perhaps the best-known ­– and the most photographed – route in the valley: it is the wide diagonal crack splitting the bulge in the upper headwall. The name derives from a scatological event on the first ascent. (Parc backwards . . .) In that original version it was a rather wandering route, starting by traversing across from the Lic-Pa belay stance. Much better is to start up White Sabbath.

From the Lic-Pa belay, climb a series of cracks leading up the wall, heading directly for the wide crack of Parc Lane. Either traverse left at this point left into Ta-Lo, or finish up Parc Lane.

Back at the base of the cliff, to the right of Death Wall. Climb the groove on fingerlocks and jams. A good beginner’s trad lead as it is relatively straightforward to protect.

Combined with Parc Lane this is an excellent route: almost a full rope-length at grade 18. Start down and right of Death Wall and climb the crack and corner system directly up to the Parc Lane arch. Finish up this or traverse into Ta-Lo.

Mmmm . . . Start up a sharp V-groove, then step left (crux) and traverse to another groove with a crack in the wall. Climb this, and move left onto the sloping top of the pillar to gain a chimney. Finish on steep vegetation.