Middle Earth Crag

Type

Altitude

1400m

Part of

This small crag is at the north-eastern end of Pukekaikiore. The many short routes here are ideal for people learning to lead and place protection; the crag was developed expressly for this purpose by Jo Straker and others at OPC during 1980–81.
There are several fixed anchors at the top for belays, as natural belays are difficult to find. Be wary of the loose rocks that litter the slope above the crag. Walk off either side to descend. Climbs are described from left to right.

Walktime

45 min

Aspect

North East

Lat/lon

-39.15009803,175.61027527, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

BH34 256 633

Approach

The crag is at the north-eastern end of Pukekaikiore, 100 metres beyond the end of the poled track to the 1954 lava flow and 50 metres up the slope.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Quality
1	1Gandalf, 11	11	1.02
P1 11 Trad Climb easily up to the ledge and then up the wide crack on the left, to a spike on the face a little above half height. Stand on this and step right to climb to the top.
2	2Arête Of Despair, 21	21	0
P1 21 Trad Top-roped only. The lack of runners would make this a bold lead. Climb straight up the flattish arête, marked by an obvious patch of orange lichen.
3	3Baggins, 15	15	1.02
P1 15 Trad Layback or bridge the bottom corner, then jam and bridge through the bulge to easier ground above.
4	4Bilbo, 14	14	1.02
P1 14 Trad The second layback crack has a short, strenuous start before reaching easier blocky ground.
5	5Shadowfax, 12	12	0
P1 12 Trad Climb the two converging cracks to a ledge, move up to another ledge, then tackle the final chimney/corner.
6	6Mordor, 12	12	0
P1 12 Trad This left-sloping chimney can lead to the finish of Shadowfax. Alternately, finish up the blocky face.
7	7Gollum, 15	15	0
P1 15 Trad Climb up to a finger crack, which is laybacked to a ledge. Straight up to finish.
8	8Unclimbed Crack, 16	16	0
P1 16 Trad Starts as a handcrack but blanks out at the top. Strenuous moves on large holds lead out of the crack onto the right arête. Finish up Frodo.
9	9Frodo, 10	10	0
P1 10 Trad Climbs cracks in the slab.
10	10Hobbit Hill Slab, 10	10	0
P1 10 Trad The slab right of Frodo.
11	11Easy Gully, 4	4	0
P1 4 Trad Climb easily up the blocks in the obvious gully. Take care though: some of the blocks are loose.
12	12Rivendell Arete, 14	14	0
P1 14 Trad Climb the arête on the left of the slab (easier if you step right).
12	12Rivendell Slab, 10	10	0
P1 10 Trad There are three routes on this slab, graded 9–10.

Comments

UUID

bfdd5dbb-a9c0-4bc9-b86e-90df3bbd6dce