Hotu West Wing | ClimbNZ

Type

Sector

Altitude

1300m

Part of

Mangatepopo

The west side of Hotu Cliffs.

Aspect

South

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
1	1The Shrinker, 14	14	15m	0
P1 14 15m Trad Climb up the chimney on the back side of the cioch.
2	2Tender Touch, 18	18	15m	0
P1 18 15m Trad On the left side of this cliff, just a few metres from the bottom end of the buttress it forms, is an overhanging wall. Climb this onto a small ramp that leads to an obvious weakness/crack through a second overhanging wall. The small loose block in the crack provides the crux.
3	3Cioch, 14	14	70m	3
Pronounced key-och: a gable shaped piece of rock. This is a superb climb and starts just right of the bottom of the buttress. @todo: Not sure about split of lengths, but 70m total in text P1 14 20m Trad Make a strenuous move to get off the ground and then climb the crest of the buttress, tending right after 10m into a steep groove that exits onto a ledge. Move a short distance along the ledge, then climb up to the crest and along this a short way to belay. P2 14 50m Trad Stay on the crest and climb delicately over the cioch. An easier alternative is to climb the corner on the right of the cioch.
4	4Not Feasybull, 18	18	15m	0
P1 18 15m Trad A strenuous, awkward climb up the gently overhanging wall to the right of Cioch. Struggle up to and around the dubious-looking flake. Often top-roped. A good belay can be arranged a few metres below the ridge.
5	5Mad Movies, 18,A3	18,A3	15m	0
P1 18 Aid A3 15m Trad Climb the steep wall on aid and move left onto the flake of Not Feasybull.
6	6Blood, 14	14	15m	0
P1 14 15m Trad Strenuous. Climb directly up the steep groove and over a small overhang at the top to ledges. A better alternative climbs out onto the right-hand wall, and up to big holds, then back left to the overhang.
7	7Just Feasybull, 12	12	15m	0
P1 12 15m Trad Start directly below the cioch. Climb the groove (one thin move in the middle) then the crack that leads to the crest beside the cioch.
8	8Potrezebie Left, 12	12	15m	0
P1 12 15m Trad Start just left of an easy angled corner and climb straight up to a groove notable for a little jug handle formation at its base. Up the groove to a good spike belay.
9	9Potrezebie, 12	12	15m	0
P1 12 15m Trad Up over knobbly rock into an easy-angled corner; up this to the top.
10	10Potrezebie Right, 9	9	15m	0
P1 9 15m Trad More or less anywhere over easy rock at the right end of the West Wing.
11	11Cleft Chimney, 13	13	10m	0
P1 13 10m Trad The chimney climb at the top right side of the wall.

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UUID

815b4742-2859-4f0f-8586-79e8ffb10767