Hotu East Wing

(7 routes)

The east side of the Hotu Cliffs

Altitude: 
1300m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Ringatu 11 15m
2.01
wire representing trad
An excellent route. Climb the buttress, keeping as near as possible to the crest (easier to the left). A good spike and/or nut belay at the top.
Graeme Dingle, 1972
2 Ringatu Direct 15 15m
0
wire representing trad
An alternate start up a steep crack with a loose block in it.
Noel Sissons, Mary Atkinson, 1972
3 Swerv 17 15m
0
wire representing trad
The right-hand crack and main face on the buttress. Climb the crack and overhang free then aid up the gently overhanging face above (A2).
Merv English, 1974
4 Swing 17 A2 15m
0
wire representing trad
Start up Swerv, then move right around an edge and straight up on large holds.
Graeme Dingle, 1972
5 Tuhoe 14 20m
0
wire representing trad
Climb the deep groove on the right of the main buttress to near a dangerously loose block, then onto a ledge on the right. Climb the clean corner above and join Ringatu to the top.
Graeme Dingle, Limbo Thompson, Colin Abbott, 1972
6 Te Kooti 17 15m
0
wire representing trad
Layback and jam the steep crack. Strenuous after the bulge.
Graeme Dingle, Noel Sissons, 1972
7 The Tumbler 16 10m
0
wire representing trad
The right-hand most line on the East Wing. A short, delicate corner problem.
Graeme Dingle, Noel Sissons, Colin Abbott, 1972
Attribution: 
Richard Thomson