

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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Wine Trail | 15 | 10m |
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The obvious crack at the far left hand end of the crag. DBC Belay.
Allan Kane, Richard Dunn, Robyn Wayne, Nov -1991
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Working Holiday | 16 | 12m |
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Climb the face past 5 bolts and a DBC belay.
Bryce Martin, Craig Martin 21/7/97
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Cherry Blossom | 18,11 | 22m |
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Right of Working Holiday. The second pitch can be climbed as an extension of the two climbs to the right, Les Femmes and Wait Until Tomorrow..
Alice Heath, Dan Head, Marina Baiguerra, Oct 2020
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Les Femmes et les Grimpeurs d'Abord | 19 | 15m |
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Vincent Zintzen, Cecile Glorot, Nov 2013
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Ben’s a Tree Hugger | 16 |
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Climb up Wait until Tomorrow, until the fifth bolt and then move over small holds to the right using the tree to move up. Now reach left to clip the sixth bolt and climb the buttress to reach the double bolted belay of Wait until Tomorrow.
Ben Clark 11th of September 2022
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Wait Until Tomorrow | 17 | 20m |
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Shane Harrison, Cecile Glorot, Nov 2013
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There’s Wetas in my Porridge | 13 | 12m |
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A great trad line but in need of a good clean. A large cam is handy near the top.
Allan Kane, Richard Dunn, Robyn Wayne, Nov 1991
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The Elephant Goes Toot | 17,11 | 30m |
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Climb up onto the bulletproof looking face. Some great thoughtful moves on some great pockets and edges. The second pitch can be climbed as an extension of this climb or There's Wetas in my Porridge.
Marcus Manning, Catherine Moger Nov 2013
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Holiday Mode | 19 | 15m |
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The face and arete to the left of From the Editor. Climb past 3 bolts then onto the top ledge, continue up easy
ground to the DBC belay.
Bryce Martyn, Jo Willet 2-June-92
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From the Editor | 15 | 20m |
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The obvious groove abd shallow corner in the middle of the wall.
Pete Manning, Jo Willet, Bryce Martyn, 2-June-92
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Billy Bob | 18 | 15m |
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Immediately right of the From the Editor groove/corner. Nice climbing up through the overhang and onto the upper face.
Scott Taylor, Nov 2013
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Cerebellum | 20 | 19m |
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Up the blunt arete. Don't drift right onto Hidden Treasure.
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Hidden Treasure | 19 | 22m |
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A low bolt protects the tricky start, then power through the overhang on some good holds. Easy climbing in the middle section will lead you to the thought provoking headwall. Nice and long, climbs into the sun, like the name suggests, who would've thought such a nice climb was here!
Dan Head
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Walking on Sunshine | 16 | 22m |
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Starts in the off-width crack/corner (first crux) before breaking out onto easier ground with some good moves. The head wall provides the second more technical crux. Finishes at the same anchor as Hidden Treasure, and like that, this one has length, views and usually some sun.
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Slabasaurus | 13 | 10m |
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Up the slab on the left leaning corner/ledge, give the tree a hug on the way past, and finish at anchor halfway up the cliff. If you want a second pitch, step left and into the upper half of Walking on Sunshine (grade 16).
Sash Nukada, June 2021
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Avalanche | 11 | 20m |
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On the Left hand side of the Right Hand Wall. A deep crack studded with stumps. Steep at first then angles off at the top
and another bolt chain belay. (I haven’t been able to find this climb so can
only conclude that it has been swallowed up by the bush)
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Tunnel Web Tread | 14 | 19m |
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Immediately left of the overhanging flake. The crack and face above, a little
over grown these days. TBC belay.
Mark Jones, Sally Rowe – Oct 1991
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Stab of the Stonekeeper | 21 | 10m |
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Takes the flake and over hang directly up the middle. Pull over onto the face
above then continue up to the DBC belay out right.
Mark Jones Oct 1991.
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Terminal Stillness | 17 | 8m |
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Just to the left is a large flake , the route up the right hand side.
A superb route up the right-hand crack of the flake. Protection is good
round the flake then one bolt in the face. Belay at the chains or keep going
to the higher belay of Tunnel Web Spider. (Pro CD, Wires)
Mark Jones, Sally Rowe – Oct 1991
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No one | 23 | 18m |
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The bolted route up the shallow corner immediately left of the arete.
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Romancing the Haggis | 21 | 17m |
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Either start out right or do the pleasant little boulder problem start straight
up the arete. Clip the peg then continue up on easier ground till you reach
the finger crack proper, a cool head is required and a few micro cam
placements can be found. Pleasant climbing up the crack to the DBC belay
ledge of Rockness Monster. [Pro: Small & Med CD, W]
Mark Jones, Allan Kane –Oct 1991.
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Rockness Monster | 17 | 17m |
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Climb the obvious corner straight up and over the bulge. This is the crux
but it is well protected with fail safe bomber wire placements. Continue up the groove above. Move left near the top and finish on the large belay ledge.
DBC belay and the protection is good if you take your time arranging it. [Pro:
CD, W]
Mark Jones , Sally Rowe Oct 1991.
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Highland Cling | 18 | 15m |
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Climb the face and blunt arete. Pull over the bulge then continue up the face
and arete to the belay of Electric Wizard. [Pro 3 bolts].
Mark Jones, Allan Kane – Nov 1991.
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Electric Wizard | 20 | 15m |
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Climb up the face left of the corner to the small roof, pull through the roof,
crux, then continue up the face. After the top bolt you can either escape out
onto the left arete or move over right, both are difficult and both are much of
a much ness grade wise. 4 Bolts and a DRB belay.
Mark Jones – Nov 1991.
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Crystal Enquiry | 18 | 15m |
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Climb up the steep right facing corner then through the small over hang,
crux. Continue up the crack and groove system above, then break out left
higher up onto the head wall (bolt) and the DRB belay of Where to From Here.
The gear placements are a little difficult to arrange but sound. [Pro: CD, Hex,
W, 1 bolt].
Mark Jones, Allan Kane – Nov 1991.
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Buckets In The Belfry | 17 | 15m |
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CLIMB CLOSED: Ancient Maori art has been discovered at the bottom of this climb. Please respect landowners request and stay off this climb.
The bucket strewn arete just left of Where to From Here. Easy climbing onto
the ledge then launch up the arete past 5 bolts , the crux is in the middle to
top section. Shares the DRB belay of Where to From Here.
Mark Jones, Allan Kane – Nov 1991.
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Where to From Here | 16 | 15m |
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The large right facing corner.
Climb the corner crack system at about grade 14 to the large intermediate
ledge. Then continue out left round the arching roof crack. A secret hold
provides salvation. DRB belay. (Pro, CD, Hex, Wires)
Allan Kane, Richard Dune, Oct 1991
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Waiting for the Ant | 14 | 7m |
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An awkward start move leads to easy climbing up the middle of the face past
3 naked bolts then mantle onto the large ledge (crux) and belay off the DBC
belay. One of the nicest 14 around.
Richard Dunn , Robyn Wayne, Nov-91
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Summer at the Beach | 14 | 10m |
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The small corner groove at the far right hand end of the crag . Climb the
slab & arete then pull over the small overhanging section onto the slab
above. From this point climb the twin crack’s in the head wall and belay
further back in the bush, DRB bealy. (Pro CD, Wires, Hex)
Richard Dunn , Robyn Wayne, Nov-91
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Places
Type | Title | Link to edit content |
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Boulder | Main Cliff Bouldering (6 routes) |