Kinloch (K1) | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

400m

Part of

This crag is closed (as of 8/4/2024), please see note below in the 'Access' section.
Kinloch has about 30 high-quality easy to moderate climbs on solid rhyolite with easy access. It gets the sun late morning, so in winter afternoons are best while in summer you can spend the afternoon swimming after a morning climbing.
Climbing started at Kinloch in October 1991 when Mark Jones along with others based at the Tiho Venture school started to develop the area.
The crag has been developed with an effort to minimise the visual and physical impact of climbing. Native trees have been preserved and some hangers are painted.
Climbs on the right-hand end are in the open while the left-hand end is tucked away in the bush. When you arrive at the crag most people park their bags adjacent to the large right-facing corner of Where to From Here, just right of a small boulder that has a selection of belay bolts. The next section of cliff is 10m to the left tucked away in the bush.

Walktime

Aspect

North West

Lat/lon

POINT (175.92021 -38.672712)

Topo50

BG36 541 155

Approach

The crag is part of Whangamata no 3 block which is Māori freehold land.
The right end of the cliff has been identified as wāhi tapu and the iwi have asked climbers to not climb at this crag. Please respect the wishes of the landowners in order not to jeopardise access to other crags in the area.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Wine Trail, 15	15	10m		0
P1 15 10m Trad The obvious crack at the far left hand end of the crag. DBC Belay.
	Working Holiday, 16	16	12m	5	1.02
P1 16 12m 5 Climb the face past 5 bolts and a DBC belay.
	Cherry Blossom, 18	18	22m	6	1.02
Right of Working Holiday. The second pitch can be climbed as an extension of the two climbs to the right, Les Femmes and Wait Until Tomorrow.. P1 18 13m 6 P2 11 9m 4
	Les Femmes et les Grimpeurs d'Abord, 19	19	15m	6	1.02
P1 19 15m 6
	Ben’s a Tree Hugger, 16	16		6	0
Climb up Wait until Tomorrow, until the fifth bolt and then move over small holds to the right using the tree to move up. Now reach left to clip the sixth bolt and climb the buttress to reach the double bolted belay of Wait until Tomorrow. P1 16 6
	Wait Until Tomorrow, 17	17	20m	6	1.02
P1 17 20m 6
	There’s Wetas in my Porridge, 13	13	12m		0
A great trad line but in need of a good clean. A large cam is handy near the top. P1 13 12m Trad Climb the prominent crack line to DBC Belay.
	The Elephant Goes Toot, 17	17	30m	7	2.01
Climb up onto the bulletproof looking face. Some great thoughtful moves on some great pockets and edges. The second pitch can be climbed as an extension of this climb or There's Wetas in my Porridge. P1 17 20m 7 P2 11 10m 3
	Holiday Mode, 19	19	15m	4	1.02
P1 19 15m 4 The face and arete to the left of From the Editor. Climb past 3 bolts then onto the top ledge, continue up easy ground to the DBC belay.
	From the Editor, 15	15	20m	6	1.02
P1 15 20m 6 The obvious groove abd shallow corner in the middle of the wall.
	Billy Bob, 18	18	15m	5	1.02
Immediately right of the From the Editor groove/corner. Nice climbing up through the overhang and onto the upper face. P1 18 15m 5
	Cerebellum, 20	20	19m	7	0
P1 20 19m 7 Up the blunt arete. Don't drift right onto Hidden Treasure.
	Hidden Treasure, 19	19	22m	12	2.01
P1 19 22m 12 A low bolt protects the tricky start, then power through the overhang on some good holds. Easy climbing in the middle section will lead you to the thought provoking headwall. Nice and long, climbs into the sun, like the name suggests, who would've thought such a nice climb was here!
	Walking on Sunshine, 16	16	22m	11	1.02
P1 16 22m 11 Starts in the off-width crack/corner (first crux) before breaking out onto easier ground with some good moves. The head wall provides the second more technical crux. Finishes at the same anchor as Hidden Treasure, and like that, this one has length, views and usually some sun.
	Slabasaurus, 13	13	10m	5	0
P1 13 10m 5 Up the slab on the left leaning corner/ledge, give the tree a hug on the way past, and finish at anchor halfway up the cliff. If you want a second pitch, step left and into the upper half of Walking on Sunshine (grade 16).
	Avalanche, 11	11	20m		0
P1 11 20m Trad On the Left hand side of the Right Hand Wall. A deep crack studded with stumps. Steep at first then angles off at the top and another bolt chain belay. (I haven’t been able to find this climb so can only conclude that it has been swallowed up by the bush)
	Tunnel Web Tread, 14	14	19m		0
P1 14 19m Trad Immediately left of the overhanging flake. The crack and face above, a little over grown these days. TBC belay.
	Stab of the Stonekeeper, 21	21	10m	6	0
P1 21 10m 6 Takes the flake and over hang directly up the middle. Pull over onto the face above then continue up to the DBC belay out right.
	Terminal Stillness, 17	17	8m		1.02
P1 17 8m Trad Just to the left is a large flake , the route up the right hand side. A superb route up the right-hand crack of the flake. Protection is good round the flake then one bolt in the face. Belay at the chains or keep going to the higher belay of Tunnel Web Spider. (Pro CD, Wires)
	No one, 23	23	18m	8	0
P1 23 18m 8 The bolted route up the shallow corner immediately left of the arete.
	Romancing the Haggis, 21	21	17m		1.02
P1 21 17m Trad Either start out right or do the pleasant little boulder problem start straight up the arete. Clip the peg then continue up on easier ground till you reach the finger crack proper, a cool head is required and a few micro cam placements can be found. Pleasant climbing up the crack to the DBC belay ledge of Rockness Monster. [Pro: Small & Med CD, W]
	Rockness Monster, 17	17	17m		0
P1 17 17m Trad Climb the obvious corner straight up and over the bulge. This is the crux but it is well protected with fail safe bomber wire placements. Continue up the groove above. Move left near the top and finish on the large belay ledge. DBC belay and the protection is good if you take your time arranging it. [Pro: CD, W]
	Highland Cling, 18	18	15m	3	0
P1 18 15m 3 Climb the face and blunt arete. Pull over the bulge then continue up the face and arete to the belay of Electric Wizard. [Pro 3 bolts].
	Electric Wizard, 20	20	15m	4	2.01
P1 20 15m 4 Climb up the face left of the corner to the small roof, pull through the roof, crux, then continue up the face. After the top bolt you can either escape out onto the left arete or move over right, both are difficult and both are much of a much ness grade wise. 4 Bolts and a DRB belay.
	Crystal Enquiry, 18	18	15m	1	0
P1 18 15m 1 Trad Climb up the steep right facing corner then through the small over hang, crux. Continue up the crack and groove system above, then break out left higher up onto the head wall (bolt) and the DRB belay of Where to From Here. The gear placements are a little difficult to arrange but sound. [Pro: CD, Hex, W, 1 bolt].
	Buckets In The Belfry, 17	17	15m	5	2.01
P1 17 15m 5 CLIMB CLOSED: Ancient Maori art has been discovered at the bottom of this climb. Please respect landowners request and stay off this climb. The bucket strewn arete just left of Where to From Here. Easy climbing onto the ledge then launch up the arete past 5 bolts , the crux is in the middle to top section. Shares the DRB belay of Where to From Here.
	Where to From Here, 16	16	15m		1.02
P1 16 15m Trad CLIMB CLOSED: This climb is one of three closed due to its proximity to the wāhi tapu site. Please respect these closures. The large right-facing corner. Climb the corner crack system at about grade 14 to the large intermediate ledge. Then continue out left round the arching roof crack. A secret hold provides salvation. DRB belay. (Pro, CD, Hex, Wires)
	Waiting for the Ant, 14	14	7m	3	1.02
P1 14 7m 3 CLIMB CLOSED: This climb is one of three closed due to its proximity to the wāhi tapu site. Please respect these closures. An awkward start move leads to easy climbing up the middle of the face past 3 naked bolts then mantle onto the large ledge (crux) and belay off the DBC belay. One of the nicest 14 around.
	Summer at the Beach, 14	14	10m		0
P1 14 10m Trad The small corner groove at the far right hand end of the crag . Climb the slab & arete then pull over the small overhanging section onto the slab above. From this point climb the twin crack’s in the head wall and belay further back in the bush, DRB bealy. (Pro CD, Wires, Hex)

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