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Upper Bluff

Type
Part of
Image
Aspect
North East
Access

From the beach, follow the track past the toilet for 2 minutes until you reach a rock cairn at the top of a small rise. Walk uphill to reach Lower Bluff and head left, continuing into a small valley. Head up this to a rock cairn where a marked track leads out around the top of Lower Bluff and back up to an open area at the base of this imposing wall.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Recycling Nachos, 22 22 20m 6
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 20m
  • 6

Right off the track to the top of the Bluff is a bolted line. Starts in a short corner.


 Squeedily Spooch, 23 23 20m 8
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 20m
  • 8

 Selective Hearing, 21 21 15m
1.02

The corner crack system just left of Immaculate Conception. The gear is quite thin in the middle (small gear useful) and the steep hand-jamming finish is demanding.


  • P1
  • 21
  • 15m
  • Trad

 Immaculate Conception, 27 27 25m 9
2.01

The impressive looking steep wall with good features. Keep chugging up the headwall following the line of bolts to finish over the lip.


  • P1
  • 27
  • 25m
  • 9

 Way of the Dragon, 26 26 25m 13
2.01

  • P1
  • 26
  • 25m
  • 13

Up the lighter-coloured rock.


 Morbid Vision, 27 27 22m 8
1.02

Altar of Madness direct. The routs share the first two and last two bolts, but in between this route heads straight up through the middle of the wall.


  • P1
  • 27
  • 22m
  • 8


 Altar of Madness, 25 25 25m 7
2.01

Nice, technical face climbing. Follow the line of ring bolts up and right. At the ledge system, traverse back left and then head up via some technical moves.


  • P1
  • 25
  • 25m
  • 7


 Be Rude Not To, 22 22 10m 3
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 10m
  • 3

A second pitch from the Altar of Madness belay.


 Tour of Duty, 25 25 25m 8
2.01

  • P1
  • 25
  • 25m
  • 8

Start Altar of Madness and head straight up the impressive sheer wall after the first four bolts instead of traversing left. You can link into Active Service from the last bolt.


 Flogged to Death, 28 28 30m 10
0

  • P1
  • 28
  • 30m
  • 10

Easy climbing to a ledge and anchor, up to a jug then fight through small edges and slopers to a difficult penultimate clip. Equipped by Dave Hood.


 Active Service, 25 25 15m 7
0

  • P1
  • 25
  • 15m
  • 7

A second pitch from the Flogged to Death belay.


 Sex Panther, 18 18 40m 6
1.02

This climb is better if climbed in one pitch but there are anchors halfway up if you choose to climb only the first bolted pitch.


  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 6

  • P2
  • 17
  • 20m
  • Trad

 The Sufferer and the Witness, 18 18 37m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 28m
  • Trad

  • P2
  • 16
  • 9m
  • Trad

Comments
UUID
 
7b7891da-33b2-4a5d-8c01-55fa42e9614d