The Point | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

The Point is a spectacular place to climb, with long and exposed routes starting on narrow ledges perched high above the lake. On a clear day Karangahape Bluffs and the mountains of Tongariro and Ruapehu are visible. In summer trout can be seen below. The Point stays shaded until midday.

Aspect

West

Approach

The walk to the Point from the beach takes around 20 minutes. Follow the track past the long drop toilet, staying close to the shoreline through the rock ravine and on to a small beach. Once you leave the shoreline the track winds through blocky ground before rising up steeply (with a hand line) to reach the Point.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Mellow Yellow, 15	15	35m	11	1.02
A nice multi-pitch outing to ease into the style of The Point. Pitch 2 was initially climbed as two pitches but is better done as a single pitch (take a sling to clip the belay). P1 15 12m 3 A short right tending pitch to gain the ledge. P2 15 23m 11 Jump over the garden (!) and ascend the slab, traversing right after the third bolt. Then climb straight up the slab to the top.
	Sunday School, 20	20	12m	4	0
P1 20 12m 4 Climb the buttress, following the bolts to a crux after the third bolt. Belay off the first anchors of Mellow Yellow.
	Yellow Submarine, 13	13	12m		1.02
P1 13 12m Trad Climb the left side of the crack, continue past small trees until standing on a large block. Exit up the left crack to the first anchors of Mellow Yellow.
	The Sweet and the Savage, 18	18	30m		2.01
Follow the rock south. The wide corner crack with the large arching roof section. P1 18 20m Trad Follow the crack up and through the roof, being careful not to use your big gear too early, then mantle onto the ledge for a trad belay. [Pro CD, W] P2 16 10m Trad Climb the obvious corner up to a cosy ledge and lower off, a rope stretching 25m abseil gets you back down. Trying to combine both pitches as one as on the first ascent, only results in hideous rope drag. [Pro CD, W]
	Fistula, 19	19	28m		0
P1 19 28m Trad The Sweet and the Savage direct, basically. Climb straight up to the ledge and continue to the top in a single long pitch.
42	42All Aussie Adventures, 15	15	35m	5	1.02
Continue along the track for 10m until a small airy ledge is reached. The crack left of the arête is the start. Time to hit the road! P1 15 27m 5 Trad Start up the crack, moving left onto the arête after 10m. Climb the arête past 5 bolts and a large wire placement, then finish up a crack. P2 15 8m 3 A short pitch for a marginally better view.
	Raw Umber, 15	15	15m	5	0
P1 15 15m 5 Climb the arête past 5 bolts to a belay on the left. If you don’t stop you’ll find yourself on Survival of the Fittest.
43	43Survival of the Fittest, 19	19	40m	14	1.02
P1 19 40m 14 The bolted arête right of All Aussie Adventures. Head up the arête, through the groove, and eventually left to a belay.
	The Sweet and the Savage, 19	19	30m		0
P1 19 20m Trad The wide corner crack with the large arching roof section. Follow the crack up and right, being careful not to use your big gear too early, then mantle onto the ledge for a trad belay. P2 16 10m Trad Climb the obvious corner up to a cosy ledge.
	Counterintutive, 20	20	20m	7	1.02
P1 20 20m 7 From the ledge halfway up Survival of the Fittest, head left and climb the arête above the top of Stone Temple Pilots.
44	44Temple of the Stone Pilots, 25	25	25m	9	0
P1 25 25m 9
45	45Shoot Your Gun, 16	16	50m		0
P1 16 50m Trad A nice long corner. Move left at the top to the anchors.
46	46Ezy Ryder, 20	20	48m	8	0
P1 20 22m 8 Follow ring bolts past a large hueco to a belay. P2 20 26m 8 Clip the first four ring bolts then traverse right through the roof to join the top of Highway Child.
47	47Highway Child, 21	21	47m	15	2.01
P1 21 47m 15
48	48Soul Train, 18	18	45m	11	0
P1 18 45m 11
49	49High Hopes, 16	16	45m	7	3
The next long arête. An outstanding route, one of the best climbs at K Bay. P1 16 23m 7 From the right hand end of the ledge step up carefully to the 1st bolt. Step right onto the arête after clipping the 3rd bolt, climb past 4 more bolts then step right to the belay ledge, DBC belay. P2 16 22m 7 Climb back onto the arête and follow 7 more bolts to the top. Double absail. DBC belay. The route can be done as one long awesome pitch
50	50Make My Blue Rat Dance, 18	18	18m	7	0
P1 18 18m 7
51	51Black Yoda, 22	22	30m	14	0
P1 22 30m 14 A great long pitch starting from the Make My Blue Rat Dance belay. Finish on to the High Hopes slab and belay.
52	52Resolution, 23	23	55m		0
P1 18 22m Trad P2 23 33m Trad
54	54Have a Cigar (You’re Gonna Go Far), 23	23	55m	7	0
P1 19 25m 7 P2 23 30m 5 Trad
55	55Fly My Pretties, 25	25	30m	8	0
P1 23 10m 3 P2 25 20m 8
56	56Fly My Pretties, Fly, 24	24	20m	8	3
P1 24 20m 8 An alternative second pitch to Fly My Pretties that climbs the fabulous exposed face to the right.
57	57Human Intervention, 18	18	28m	9	2.01
P1 18 28m 9 Past this point the track gets a bit more difficult, so best leave your harness on for clipping into the fixed rope on the traverse sections. At the end of the fixed rope. The arete just right of the large bush filled gully. Start just past the log, traverse diagonally left to the first bolt then follow the rest of the bolts to the top & DBC belay. [Pro 9 bolts]
58	58Natural Selection, 18	18	26m		1.02
P1 18 26m Trad The crack right of to ”Human Intervention”. Move left near the top to the DBC belay. [Pro W, Cd’s]
	Out Of The Blue, 14	14	18m		1.02
P1 14 18m Trad A few metres further a long is the “Jump rock”. This is the top. A deep water solo. The best time to do this climb is on a hot day in summer. Descent “JUMP”, Make sure you get a descent run up. If you don’t have the balls, rap down from the tree.

Comments

This place appears in

Kawakawa Bay: a guide for rock climbers, 2019

Free download of this guide

Rock Deluxe North, 2013

Buy this guidebook

UUID

3915a9b0-2e2c-4131-9128-02ba5f00c8e2