Natural pro requiredA great three pitch trad line. Maybe 2.5 stars, each pitch is so unique. It starts via the access rope, between Brunettes not Fighter Jets and Elephant Hunting, For those that don’t climb solid trad 21 you can abseil into the brilliant grade 14 pitch
via the top of the first pitches of T.D.H.A.W.I.P (13) or Jugzilla (17).
- P1
- 21
- 52m
- Trad
Follow an overlap up five meters onto a slab. Step left. From here a crack cuts through the slightly steep rock above, between an arête on the left and a pink wall on the right. Cool moves, good gear and very sustained through the top half of the route (crux).
- P2
- 14
- Trad
A three star 14 up the easy splitter hand crack, split from the ThunderGod of the Sky. First climbed with a rack of full baked bean cans as part of a quasi religious ceremony.
- P3
- 18
- Trad
(Also pitch 2 of The Devil Has a Window Into Paradise) Build a trad anchor three meters left of the Jugzilla bolted anchors. Climb one meter up to follow a seam diagonally right for five meters, then mantle a spike and head straight up through some cool featured rock. Great moves, exposed, but well protected.