Further around the point there are some great moderate trad and bolted routes, including some multipitch outings to the top of the crag.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
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| 60 | 60Sidewinder, 19 | 19 | 60m | 8 |
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Climb the arete and face to a good ledge and bolt anchors.
Move right and climb the face. Bolt anchors.
Keep on up the face to the bolt anchors. |
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| 61 | 61Last Tango in Taupo, 21 | 21 | 30m |  |
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The crack and thin seam. Finish at the first anchor of Side Winder. A bold lead. A 60m rope and kahunas are essential. |
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| 62 | 62For King and Country, 17 | 17 | 30m | |
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Climb the well-protected crack and right-facing corner. |
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| Hands Solo, 14 | 14 | 15m | 6 |
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A mistaken retrobolt of the bottom of For King And Country. From the anchor you can access Blood, Sweat and Sand. |
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| Blood, Sweat and Sand, 21 | 21 | 15m | 6 |
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The left side of the cave. Bridge your way up (or not) and move left at the horizontal break and up to gain the big chockstone. |
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| 63 | 63Road Tripping, 18 | 18 | 48m | 17 |
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Climb the face and arête that just keeps going and going. To descend use the bolted anchors about half way up under a big bush, off to the left. |
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| Night Rider, 23 | 23 | 40m | 16 |
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The overhanging arête right of Road Tripping. |
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| 64 | 64The Pilgrimage, 23 | 23 | 45m | 10 |
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Start up the arête as for Night Rider but traverse right at around the 5th bolt, then up and eventually right to a ledge.
Step back left and up. |
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| The Road to Santiago, 25 | 25 | 45m | 18 |
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The Pilgrimage as a single pitch without stepping right to the ledge. |
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| Seasons in the Abyss, 16 | 16 | 25m | |
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The corner with the huge honeycomb. Unfortunately not as good as it looks Protection only in the first and last 5m of climbing, so a 15m runout on easy ground. [Pro CD, W] |
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| 65 | 65Once You Go Crack, You Never Go Back, 19 | 19 | 30m | |
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The zigzag crack with a well-protected crux. |
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| 66 | 66Super Natural, 15 | 15 | 45m | |
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For this next section of track, a knotted line and fixed line traverse get you to a lovely secluded ledge. Climb the thin seam on the slab. The gear is a bit thin at the crux. To get down, rap to a set of anchors on the arête. |
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| Fraggle Rock, 23 | 23 | 122m | 10 |
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The slab/arête with a short bulge 6) 5 bolts: Follow the bolts leading upwards and away from the arete all the way to the top of the wall.
Consistent slab/arête climbing. Can be linked with the pitch 1. Then up the hand-line to the next pitch.
Traverse left on to the easy slab. Belay in the base of the cave.
The corner. Climb the arch/cave after the crux, up to a belay ledge.
Cross the gap using the fixed line and re-belay. Climb straight up through the roof.
Follow the bolts up and away from the arête to the top of the wall. |
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| 67 | 67The Hecklers, 19 | 19 | 45m | |
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The long clean corner crack with a small roof part-way up. Take plenty of gear and you may also want to tape your hands. Sustained, well-protected classic climbing. Possibly the best trad route at Kawakawa Bay. If you need it there is a second abseil point halfway down in the alcove on the arête to the right. |
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| 68 | 68Mexican Americans, 23 | 23 | 115m | 12 |
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Climb the face. Sustained and fairly bold. Use the short hand-line to reach the next pitch.
Start right and traverse sharply left to gain the slab. Stay on the outside of the cave to your left, traversing right to the big ledge below New Wave Wall.
Take the middle line of bolts. Can be linked with pitch 4.
The roof! A second tricky section leads up and right to a long arête and ledge belay.
A short pitch, or link with pitch 4 (use a long sling on the anchor). |
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| Mr Creosote, 26 | 26 | 8m | |
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Possibly not 26, maybe the longest 8m of your life. Rap off the tree below Mexican Americans to the waterline and stuff yourself into the wide crack. |
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| 69 | 69Sunset Ledge, 14 | 14 | 28m | |
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The easy-angled corner crack. |
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| 70 | 70After the Sunset, 20 | 20 | 120m | 10 |
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Follow a wandering exposed line up the engaging arête. Can be linked into pitch 2.
Move left into the corner, back right, and onto the arête. Follow the hand-line left to reach the next pitch.
Start right and traverse sharply left to gain the slab. Stay on the outside of the cave to your left, traversing right to the big ledge below New Wave Wall.
Climb the left line of bolts to a ledge below a roof.
Follow the right line of bolts out to a crux at the prow. Continue to join the long arête (pitch 4 of Mexican Americans).
A short pitch, or link with pitch 5 (use a long sling on the anchor). |
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| 71 | 71Boat Ramp Crack, 17 | 17 | 45m | |
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A long open-book corner with some staggered overhangs near the start. Abseil off using Sunset Ledge anchors. |
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| Bi-Curious George, 18 | 18 | 30m | 10 |
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Optional starts: Left starts on the arête next to Boat Ramp Crack. Right (easier) follows the fixed line across the void, traversing into the arête from the other side. |
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| Crime of the Century , 23 | 23 | 29m | |
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A classic tradventure. Along the fixed line 7m past Boat Ramp Crack is this compelling finger crack. |
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| Gravity Games, 21 | 21 | 90m | 7 |
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‘The Vulcan Groove’. Start as for Crime of the Century and move right into the corner. A short hand-line at the top gains the grassy ledge out left. Needs cleaning – better to climb Boat Ramp Crack.
‘Bennys Slab’ AKA 'Flippin’ the Grader' (marked as 72 on the topo) leads to another big ledge.
Walk left along the ledge to ‘The Arch’, starting about halfway along the fixed line. Traverse right after the crux to a bolted anchor.
‘The Golden Hour’, if you wait for the last hour of daylight. Trad belay off a tree. |
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| Abolishing Virginity (One Route at a Time), 16 | 16 | 18m | 6 |
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Great, consistent climbing and a nice spot for photographing the climbs hereabouts. |
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| Rabid Woke Mob, 18 | 18 | 19m | |
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Climb the overhang (first crux). Continue past horizontal breaks, moving slightly right and up the widening cracks to a small ledge in a V groove. Climb this (second crux), top out left. |
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