Cracks Wall | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

500m

Part of

Cracks Wall is the most convenient of the crags, being two minutes from the lake, toilet and campsite. The trad climbing here is excellent with a number of high quality cracks in a tranquil location making this crag the first choice for most climbers. The rock stays shaded till midday.

Aspect

West

Lat/lon

-38.665639,175.87185, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

BG35 498 164

Approach

From the lake walk back towards Kinloch for 1 minute to where a rock cairn marks the track leading up to the crag. The track meets the crag at the base of Rohans Arete, a great place to hang.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Anaphylaxis, 18	18	12m		0
P1 18 12m Trad About 4m left of Jabba the Hut. Climb the steep hand crack (crux), then traverse right for protection. Finish up arête past the swarm of bees. Tree belay walk off to the left.
1	1Jabba the Hut, 14	14	15m		0
P1 14 15m Trad Start in the corner by the kānuka tree. Traverse right near top and finish up the next route.
2	2The Slot Machine, 17	17	15m		1.02
P1 17 15m Trad The obvious hand crack heading straight up the wall.
3	3Sunset Boulevard, 18	18	18m		1.02
P1 18 18m Trad Just right of The Slot Machine, follow the curving layback crack as it turns into a right-trending flake. Finish up the face where protection becomes sparse.
4	4Coconut Bikini Arête, 23	23	19m	8	1.02
P1 23 19m 8 Continuously technical climbing in the lower half will have you singing for jugs.
5	5Outboard Crack, 17	17	20m		2.01
P1 17 20m Trad Fun climbing up the right-trending crack system. Finish right onto ledge.
6	6The Lizard King, 24	24	20m	7	2.01
P1 24 20m 7 The blank scooped face between the cracks. Bring your suction cups.
7	7Flake 7, 18	18	20m		3
P1 18 20m Trad The flake/crack system with a small roof near the start. Move right around the roof and onto the face. Great moves with a well-protected crux.
8	8Critters Corner, 18	18	25m		0
P1 18 25m Trad The long open-book corner. Start up the slab with no gear until you reach the corner. Go left just below the top to a small ledge to belay.
9	9Great Scott, 20	20	27m	10	1.02
P1 20 27m 10 Climb the face right of Critters Corner.
10	10Blindmans Bluff, 17	17	28m		2.01
P1 17 28m Trad The left-hand of the twin crack lines. Shares belay with Gecko Groove.
11	11Gecko Groove, 16	16	28m		3
P1 16 28m Trad One of Stephen’s earliest contributions and still one of the best. Great climbing on the right hand crack. Save your big gear for the top.
12	12Rohans Arete, 22	22	28m	11	3
P1 22 28m 11 The beautiful long arête at the right-hand end of the crag. Climbs to the right of the bolts and is as good as it looks.
	Back to the Future, 25	25	20m	7	0
P1 25 20m 7 Climb the face and vague arête right of Rohan’s Arête.
	Crack to the Future, 24	24	20m	5	0
P1 24 20m 5 Trad Traverse into Back to the Future from the right, avoiding the hard start.
	Mr Bastard, 20	20	12m		0
P1 20 12m Trad Climb the thin crack up to the slab.
	Rohans Little Sister, 16	16	12m	4	1.02
P1 16 12m 4 To the right in a shady spot is an arête that climbs well.