2. NZ
  3. North Island
  4. Taranaki
  5. Taranaki Mt Egmont
  6. Summit area
  7. Stargate Slab

Stargate Slab

(6 routes)

A fine slabby sunny wall with an excellent panorama of the farmland below.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
West
Access: 

Travel along the summit ridge towards the Sisters (a series of gendarmes on a broken ridge running south-west from the Summit dome and curving southward) until above some smooth red slabs. All climbs are on the west side.
Alternatively, gain access to the base of the slabs by exiting either end of the crater and sidling west on scoria ledges.

New Zealand map

Map, Topo

Lat/Lon: 
-39.296646000000, 174.062576000000
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1 Centrefold 14 25m
1.02
 wire representing trad
Corner at the left edge of Stargate Slab.
Chris Prudden (Solo), 02/98.
2 Hand Jive 16 12m
1.02
 wire representing trad
A crack that curves left and into Centrefold.
Iain Young, Chris Prudden, 02/98.
3 Stargate 18 25m
3
 wire representing trad
Obvious finger hand crack and wall to the top.
Ian Beale, Iain Young, 02/98.
4 Suffrage and Emancipation 18 35m
1.02
 wire representing trad
The arrow-straight hand crack. Finish up chimney. Alternate finish on arête unled.
Ian Beale, I Dempster, Chris Prudden, 01/99.
5 Sisters Lum 14 40m
0
 wire representing trad
From the western-most arête, start the longest climb on the crag. Climb in, and on the edge of, chimney. Follow a crack through the bulge to the belay ledge.
Chris Prudden, Ian Dempster, Iain Young, 02/99.
Flying Nun 16 15m
0
 wire representing trad
From the eastern side of a pillar (Sister) start under a prominent roof move out right and up the clean rib leading to the top of the southern-most Sister.
Iain Young, Ian Dempster, Chris Prudden, 27/12/98.