Crater Face/ Sharks Tooth

(17 routes)

Crater Face is the cliff rising from the crater floor to the top of Sharks Tooth—between Surrey Entrance and Teds Alley. The cliff offers fine climbing in the lower grades and a nice aspect on a sunny day.
‡ Climbers have frequented this area for several decades. Older publications, and anecdotal evidence make reference to climbing on Sharks Tooth, although details are sketchy. Consequently there is dispute over the more recent claims of first ascents of some of the following routes. The editor has, in this instance, chosen to credit the routes to those recent claimants, due to a lack of clear records.

Ice Climbing on the Shark’s Tooth
The last couple of metres of ice can prove to without base and of little cohesion. People have fallen back into the crater from near the top—minor injuries fortunately.

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Altitude: 
2510m
Aspect: 
West
Lat/Lon: 
-39.296314000000, 174.065580000000
NZMS260: 
P20 020 115
Topo50: 
BJ29 919 498
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1 Corner Direct 12 10m
0
wire representing trad
From Surrey Road crater entrance, head directly to Sharks Tooth, climb the blocky corner direct, on the edge of the crater.
Chris Prudden solo.
2 Guidos Crack 14 10m
3
wire representing trad
From corner direct follow scree ledge south around the corner. Climb the clean crack, tend left and on the face to finish.
Chris Prudden solo.
3 Dry route 12 10m
0
wire representing trad
Starts in cleft, blocks and ledges to crater rim at top of Chimney. A good line when the chimney is choked with ice.
Unknown.
4 Outside Chimney 12 8m
0
wire representing trad
A fun variation, with a trick slab move at the start by the chimney entrance.
Unknown
5 Chimney 8 10m
0
wire representing trad
Historically the normal route to climb from the crater to Sharks Tooth. Scramble from the crater or traverse the ledge from Surrey Road entrance. Corner and easy ledges lead to a narrow cleft behind some precariously balanced, enormous boulders. ‡ The cleft can be icy with freezing conditions and impassible in winter and spring, when it can be choked with ice. Fencing wire fixed in place is not suitable for anchors.
Unknown, c.1930.
6 One by Four 13 10m
1.02
wire representing trad
Follow the scree ledge south from the chimney, to the next corner. The route starts with an awkward mantle, then into a deep corner, move left on small ledges across a slab to gain arete handholds. Finish at rim.
Soloed by Ross Eden, Steve Bailey, John & Mike Hasseling, 1997
7 Point 5 Slab 15 25m
3
wire representing trad
From Chimney follow scree ledge to clean red slabs. Climb the slab direct to start, on balance moves, medium wires. Move left to gain crack, medium cams, and climb crack direct to rim. Great situation and views.
Chris Prudden, Steve Miller, Pip Walter.
8 Two Pieces 15 25m
1.02
wire representing trad
From Chimney follow scree ledge past very blocky broken ground to a pillar. Climb the large cleft left of the pillar on ledges and bridging (easy). At 15m you are confronted by a bulging headwall. Medium cams at the top of the crack, then move right, and reach high for holds. Finish up easy corner to rap ledge.
Chris Prudden, Steve Miller, Pip Walter.
10 Left-hand Route 12 25m
0
wire representing trad
Better known as a winter route, mixed or ice. Start in the cold corner central on the face, beside the ‘fridge’ a large square hole on your left. Climb the loose corner, be extra careful at the top.
Unknown.
11 Right-hand Route 13 25m
2.01
wire representing trad
More recognised as an ice route, but an excellent rock experience. Start as above, bridge the corner under LH route and follow the ledge out right, continue up, plenty of gear if you require it. The corner becomes slightly obtuse, step out right on the face to a small ledge, (crux move). Continue up to the belay shelf then finish to the top of Sharks Tooth, either direct (L) or follow the crack R, with a hand traverse near the top to finish.
Unknown.
12 Sub-Zero 15 30m
1.02
wire representing trad
Starts on the first buttress south of the R and L-hand Routes. Great parallel, and vertical crack at the start (16), leads on to a fractured slab R, then direct over sometimes awkward blocks to the top. Plenty of gear if you want it.
Chris Prudden, Craig Thomas.
13 Zero Buttress 15 25m
3
wire representing trad
The most direct and interesting route on the face. Starts on top of a scree ridge 10 m right of Sub Zero. Nice vee corner to begin, leads to an excellent fractured slab R tending under an overlap. At the top of the slab move back left (crux), surmount the overlap, then direct up steep blocky finish, watch out for loose rock here.
Dave Bolger, Chris Prudden, Glen Aspin
15 Screamer 14 15m
0
wire representing trad
From Zero follow the ledge south almost to its termination with the southern aspect. The route starts on an attractive slab with a dominant crack right. Above this several ledges lead you right and under a big block (crux), body smear the block and continue to the South Ridge.
Chris Prudden, Lee Drew.
16 South Ridge 8 70m
0
wire representing trad
Starts in a frozen snow tongue, just inside the crater entrance of Teds Alley (An ice axe can be handy to cut steps). Move right up a blocky corner and ledges take you to the south ridge. A blocky scramble up the ridge, then move left out around a ledge (crux grade 10—exposure) and finish the last moves on the western aspect to the top of Sharks Tooth, there are many variations. Finish with a complete traverse to the north and down the chimney or Surrey road.
Unknown.
South Ridge WI2
0
Follow the crater rim from the top of Ted’s Alley to the summit. Difficulties can be avoided by moving right, or gained by moving left.
10 Second Gully WI3
0
Follows the obvious shallow gully just left of the previous route.
Crater Face WI3
0
As viewed from the summit, Crater Face has two prominent groove lines leading up and right and up and left from a common start. The right hand route follows, surprise, surprise, the right hand groove and has a steep finish (4). The left hand is generally easier (3). The right hand line can also be finished by moving left from below the top corner.