Eiger Wall

Scramble up to the base of the smooth wall. Climb the obvious finger crack to a well-worn belay bollard or carry on up for another 15m or so over easy broken ground.

Thin seam immediately right of 'To the Batpole'

Obvious jam crack in the face left of the Summer Garden. Climb vee grooves through to top. Good belay around spike.

This is the most obvious route on this wall. The upper portion is a narrow chimney. Climb the crack to the groove, into the chimney and out the top. A good long route for its grade.

The obvious (if a guide book editor had $1 for every time a route description included the seven-letter ‘o’ word…) clean off-width on the lower section of the Eiger Wall. Classic jamming with hard hand stacks and knee locks. Friends #5 and 6 needed.

Start with a layback and finish with excellent bridging.

Crux at the start of the first crack and painless jamming.

Crack to the right of Four-Star Day Dream. The crux is the overhang at about 10m from the bottom. Climb the crack direct to a mossy and slippery exit. A good climb at its grade—pity about the exit.

A wide crack in a gentle left facing corner some 10 to 15m up valley from the previous route. Climb the crack passing the overhanging block on the right. Beware of a mossy finish.

Two cracks to the right of Dirty Mary. Climbed in two pitches but could be done as one. 1) Technical crack climbing and bridging. 2) Steep crack with strenuous layback. Take samll wires and cams. Sustained.

10 meters to the right of Dirty Mary. A clean reddish face with twin cracks provides superb finger locks and excellent pro.

Open-book finger crack 10m right of Finger Pops. Climb to top of pedestal then up cracks to top.

The following three climbs are also claimed by the Conaglen, Drew, Prudden, Young party, and the lines are claimed to have topped-out at the top of the cliff rather than on the Traverse of the Gods.

A delicate face climb 3m along from Hangover.

A blocky climb up to the ledge Traverse of the Gods.

A seemingly wide ledge bisecting the upper part of Eiger Wall. A 1.5m gap near the left hand end tests ones courage, as you are forced to step across onto some sloping blocks. Exit up the moss and blocks to the end of Crocodile Tier.

At the upper end of the Eiger Wall, an obvious break named in the rock section as Traverse of the Gods cuts across the crag from bottom right to top left. This ledge gives an entertaining excursion under snow and ice, with loads of runners available.