Humphries Castle (West Face)

(5 routes)

The crag was named after the Chief Surveyor, Thomas Humphries, and his son Larwill, by Surveyor ON O’Donahoo in 1885. It is the most accessible of all the crags in this guide; being approximately 50 minutes walk from North Egmont. Given its accessibility, and the fine views from the crag it is surprising that more climbing has not been done here.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
1593m
Aspect: 
West
Access: 

To get there from North Egmont take the summit track, past the Tahurangi trig point. Proceed directly up the ridge known as The Razorback. Humphries Castle is to the right of the track at around 1600m. From Tahurangi Lodge follow the Around the Mountain Circuit west for about 20 minutes; at a junction with an old track turn off and follow this upwards to the upper tier of Humphries Castle.
All climbs commence on the mossy terrace ringing the upper tier. The rock is rather blocky and care should be taken near the top of climbs. The recommended method of descent from the top is by abseiling; while it is possible to walk along the spine of the Castle to the lower end this requires very great care due to loose rocks and slippery grasses.

Lat/Lon: 
-39.285353000000, 174.077082000000
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
4 Coming Through 16 25m
0
wire representing trad
Starting as for Taos Tonic turning the overhang by moving left onto the arête. Continue left and up emerging close to the highest point on the Castle.
Geoff Blake, Kevin Conaglen, 14/02/82.
3 Taos Tonic 17 21m
0
wire representing trad
Found just down from the Nose on the western side of Humphries Castle. Climb a wide crack to an overhang; move straight up over the overhang and climb the crack above.
Geoff Blake, Kevin Conaglen, 14/02/82.
2 Sliders in the Sun 17 10m
1.02
wire representing trad
On the west aspect of the Nose, climb right from the low rock shelf over a slab and up a steepening crack to Nose platform.
Chris Prudden, Dave Bolger, 1999.
1 Shannon’s Ladder 5 25m
0
This climb finishes at the Nose of Humphries Castle and is a good wide descent route to the lower tier of bluffs on the western side of the castle. The route angles down and to the north steepening towards the bottom. Loose rocks exist at the top. The first ascent was soloed by Shannon Eden, age 8.
Shannon Eden (solo), 07/10/94.

Places

Type Title Edit link
Crag Hidden Wall (1 route)