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Tahurangi Bluff

Type
Part of

Tahurangi Bluff is the dominant feature to the north of the Puffer on the Translator Road.

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Access

Access to the base of the crag is from near the top of the Puffer and involves a physical scramble through and over leatherwood scrub on the now abandoned Blundell’s Track. The climbing area is the only clean face on the crag. This bluff has received many abortive attempts over the years. Some have used any and all means in their attempts to climb it, only to be stymied lack of features in the rock, hardware, and ability.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
1 1Psycho Mist, 23 23 35m 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 23
  • 20m
  • Trad

Climb the shattered rock to the first belay ledge. Cams and wires useful. A large flake has since fallen off just below the belay. This section has been toproped at about grade 23, but would be a bold lead.


  • P2
  • 21
  • 15m
  • 4

Follow the line of bolts through steep clean slabs to the second belay ledge.


  • P3
  • 21
  • 4
  • Trad

A rising traverse on bolts to a steep corner. Climb the steep corner to the top. Belay off natural vegetation or provide your own steel standard hammered into the moss slope. If you use a steel standard for a belay it could provide a suitable anchor for abseil access to the base of the climb.


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02f1a522-ae3f-44ec-bd04-fd38a673f526