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Sharks Tooth

Type
Altitude
2510m
Part of

Crater Face is the cliff rising from the crater floor to the top of Sharks Tooth—between Surrey Entrance and Teds Alley. The cliff offers fine climbing in the lower grades and a nice aspect on a sunny day.
Climbers have frequented this area for several decades. Older publications, and anecdotal evidence make reference to climbing on Sharks Tooth, although details are sketchy. Consequently there is dispute over the more recent claims of first ascents of some of the following routes. The editor has, in this instance, chosen to credit the routes to those recent claimants, due to a lack of clear records.
Ice Climbing on the Shark’s Tooth
The last couple of metres of ice can prove to without base and of little cohesion. People have fallen back into the crater from near the top—minor injuries fortunately.

Image
Aspect
West
Lat/lon
-39.296314,174.06558, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BJ29 919 498
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Corner Direct, 12 12 10m
0

  • P1
  • 12
  • 10m
  • Trad

From Surrey Road crater entrance, head directly to Sharks Tooth, climb the blocky corner direct, on the edge of the crater.


2 2Guidos Crack, 14 14 10m
3

  • P1
  • 14
  • 10m
  • Trad

From corner direct follow scree ledge south around the corner. Climb the clean crack, tend left and on the face to finish.


3 3Dry route, 12 12 10m
0

  • P1
  • 12
  • 10m
  • Trad

Starts in cleft, blocks and ledges to crater rim at top of Chimney. A good line when the chimney is choked with ice.


4 4Outside Chimney, 12 12 8m
0

  • P1
  • 12
  • 8m
  • Trad

A fun variation, with a trick slab move at the start by the chimney entrance.


5 5Chimney, 8 8 10m
0

  • P1
  • 8
  • 10m
  • Trad

Historically the normal route to climb from the crater to Sharks Tooth. Scramble from the crater or traverse the ledge from Surrey Road entrance. Corner and easy ledges lead to a narrow cleft behind some precariously balanced, enormous boulders. ‡ The cleft can be icy with freezing conditions and impassible in winter and spring, when it can be choked with ice. Fencing wire fixed in place is not suitable for anchors.


6 6One by Four, 13 13 10m
1.02

  • P1
  • 13
  • 10m
  • Trad

Follow the scree ledge south from the chimney, to the next corner. The route starts with an awkward mantle, then into a deep corner, move left on small ledges across a slab to gain arete handholds. Finish at rim.


7 7Point 5 Slab, 15 15 25m
3

  • P1
  • 15
  • 25m
  • Trad

From Chimney follow scree ledge to clean red slabs. Climb the slab direct to start, on balance moves, medium wires. Move left to gain crack, medium cams, and climb crack direct to rim. Great situation and views.


8 8Two Pieces, 15 15 25m
1.02

  • P1
  • 15
  • 25m
  • Trad

From Chimney follow scree ledge past very blocky broken ground to a pillar. Climb the large cleft left of the pillar on ledges and bridging (easy). At 15m you are confronted by a bulging headwall. Medium cams at the top of the crack, then move right, and reach high for holds. Finish up easy corner to rap ledge.


10 10Left-hand Route, 12 12 25m
0

  • P1
  • 12
  • 25m
  • Trad

Better known as a winter route, mixed or ice. Start in the cold corner central on the face, beside the ‘fridge’ a large square hole on your left. Climb the loose corner, be extra careful at the top.


11 11Right-hand Route, 13 13 25m
2.01

  • P1
  • 13
  • 25m
  • Trad

More recognised as an ice route, but an excellent rock experience. Start as above, bridge the corner under LH route and follow the ledge out right, continue up, plenty of gear if you require it. The corner becomes slightly obtuse, step out right on the face to a small ledge, (crux move). Continue up to the belay shelf then finish to the top of Sharks Tooth, either direct (L) or follow the crack R, with a hand traverse near the top to finish.


12 12Sub-Zero, 15 15 30m
1.02

  • P1
  • 15
  • 30m
  • Trad

Starts on the first buttress south of the R and L-hand Routes. Great parallel, and vertical crack at the start (16), leads on to a fractured slab R, then direct over sometimes awkward blocks to the top. Plenty of gear if you want it.


13 13Zero Buttress, 15 15 25m
3

  • P1
  • 15
  • 25m
  • Trad

The most direct and interesting route on the face. Starts on top of a scree ridge 10 m right of Sub Zero. Nice vee corner to begin, leads to an excellent fractured slab R tending under an overlap. At the top of the slab move back left (crux), surmount the overlap, then direct up steep blocky finish, watch out for loose rock here.


15 15Screamer, 14 14 15m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 15m
  • Trad

From Zero follow the ledge south almost to its termination with the southern aspect. The route starts on an attractive slab with a dominant crack right. Above this several ledges lead you right and under a big block (crux), body smear the block and continue to the South Ridge.


16 16South Ridge, 8 8 70m
0

  • P1
  • 8
  • 70m
  • Trad

Starts in a frozen snow tongue, just inside the crater entrance of Teds Alley (An ice axe can be handy to cut steps). Move right up a blocky corner and ledges take you to the south ridge. A blocky scramble up the ridge, then move left out around a ledge (crux grade 10—exposure) and finish the last moves on the western aspect to the top of Sharks Tooth, there are many variations. Finish with a complete traverse to the north and down the chimney or Surrey road.


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