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Humphries Castle West Face


Routes are described from right to left.

POINT (174.077082 -39.285353)

To get there from North Egmont take the summit track, past the Tahurangi trig point. Proceed directly up the ridge known as The Razorback. Humphries Castle is to the right of the track at around 1600m. From Tahurangi Lodge follow the Around the Mountain Circuit west for about 20 minutes; at a junction with an old track turn off and follow this upwards to the upper tier of Humphries Castle.
All climbs commence on the mossy terrace ringing the upper tier. The rock is rather blocky and care should be taken near the top of climbs. The recommended method of descent from the top is by abseiling; while it is possible to walk along the spine of the Castle to the lower end this requires very great care due to loose rocks and slippery grasses.

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Type Name
Crag Hidden Wall


Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
4 4Coming Through, 16 16 25m

  • P1
  • 16
  • 25m
  • Trad

Starting as for Taos Tonic turning the overhang by moving left onto the arête. Continue left and up emerging close to the highest point on the Castle.

3 3Taos Tonic, 17 17 21m

  • P1
  • 17
  • 21m
  • Trad

Found just down from the Nose on the western side of Humphries Castle. Climb a wide crack to an overhang; move straight up over the overhang and climb the crack above.

2 2Sliders in the Sun, 17 17 10m

  • P1
  • 17
  • 10m
  • Trad

On the west aspect of the Nose, climb right from the low rock shelf over a slab and up a steepening crack to Nose platform.

1 1Shannon’s Ladder, 5 5 25m

  • P1
  • 5
  • 25m
  • Trad

This climb finishes at the Nose of Humphries Castle and is a good wide descent route to the lower tier of bluffs on the western side of the castle. The route angles down and to the north steepening towards the bottom. Loose rocks exist at the top. The first ascent was soloed by Shannon Eden, age 8.