
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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1 | Nose | 15 | 22m |
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Begins with a mantleshelf onto a small ledge 4m back from the end of the castle. Then a crack is followed onto the arête. The arête is climbed to the top passing a peg beneath the final block. This is the best climb on the crag.
There is also a variation start: Mr Ski Off (16): Start about 2m from the end of the Castle below a V-shaped notch, the bottom of which is at head height. Stretch high to protect the first rather physical move.
Vic Rhodes, Doug Ball, 1957.
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2 | Cats Can Sing Too | 15 | 20m |
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Climb to mossy ledge between Nose and Loosehead and then ascend off-width crack to easy ground above.
Pete Swanson, Christine Brownson, Kevin Robinson 20/03/85
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3 | Fungus’s Snotty, Mossy, Field Day | 19 | 20m |
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Start from the same ledge as Cats Can Sing Too, then ascend crack on the right hand side of the ledge to the top. Unclimbable at present due to vegetation.
Pete Swanson, B Horne.
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4 | Loosehead | 15 | 18m |
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The climb starts about 8m down from the Nose and runs up an obvious cleft below the highest point of the Castle. Climb mossy ledges for 5m, lay back or jam past the flake, and climb the crack in the wall to the top. Double bolt and chain for belay.
Unknown, pre 1982.
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5 | Humphries Rib | 15 | 18m |
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Just right of Loosehead, climb the arête and then the crack to gain the top of the rib. Continue to the belay chain.
Dave Bolger, Glen Aspin, 14/12/97.
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6 | Minolta Muncher | 15 | 16m |
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This is the next groove to the right of Loosehead. Climb the large groove and out over the overhang exiting right or out left on the top moves of Loosehead. Geoff Blake kicked a large rock off this climb which bounced on his camera.
Unknown, pre 1982.
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7 | Stuck | 16 | 24m |
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Start 10m down from Minolta Muncher. Climb the overhang to gain a narrow groove to the right which is followed to the top.
Kevin Conaglen, Geoff Blake, 14/02/82.
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8 | Mossack | 16 | 26m |
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Starts another 5m down from Stuck. Climb a short wall through a short awkward chimney to a corner; up the corner to the base of the crack in the upper block. Traverse left round the corner and up the wide crack
(15) or finish direct up the block (17). Stuart Skene, Pete Swanson, 01/81. Direct finish: Stuart Skene, Andy Harris.
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9 | Candy Pants | 17 | 26m |
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Mossy start right of Mossack. Move over blocky crest to corner and crack. Move left over fractured ground, finishing up fist crack. Crux at the the top.
Mossy start right of Mossack. Move over blocky crest to corner and crack. Move left over fractured ground, finishing up fist crack. Crux at the the top.
Dave Bolger, Chris Prudden, Glen Aspin, 14/12/00.
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