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Humphries Castle East Face

Type
Altitude
1593m

The crag was named after the Chief Surveyor, Thomas Humphries, and his son Larwill, by Surveyor ON O’Donahoo in 1885. It is the most accessible of all the crags in this guide; being approximately 50 minutes walk from North Egmont. Given its accessibility, and the fine views from the crag it is surprising that more climbing has not been done here.

Image
Lat/lon
POINT (174.077082 -39.285353)
Access

To get there from North Egmont take the summit track, past the Tahurangi trig point. Proceed directly up the ridge known as The Razorback. Humphries Castle is to the right of the track at around 1600m. From Tahurangi Lodge follow the Around the Mountain Circuit west for about 20 minutes; at a junction with an old track turn off and follow this upwards to the upper tier of Humphries Castle.
All climbs commence on the mossy terrace ringing the upper tier. The rock is rather blocky and care should be taken near the top of climbs. The recommended method of descent from the top is by abseiling; while it is possible to walk along the spine of the Castle to the lower end this requires very great care due to loose rocks and slippery grasses.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
1 Nose 15 22m
3
2 Cats Can Sing Too 15 20m
0
3 Fungus’s Snotty, Mossy, Field Day 19 20m
0
4 Loosehead 15 18m
0
5 Humphries Rib 15 18m
0
6 Minolta Muncher 15 16m
0
7 Stuck 16 24m
0
8 Mossack 16 26m
0
9 Candy Pants 17 26m
2.01
Comments
UUID
 
bdfe8183-dabb-42ed-ace5-bdb4edf7a2d2