Bobs Bluff is the most remote of all Taranaki crags.
The best approach is from Dawson Falls via Fanthams Peak/Rangitoto Flat. Looking to the west, the very large east face of Bobs Bluff can be seen. Move across to the upper end of the face over easy scoria slopes. It is not recommended to traverse the slopes when snow is covering them, unless suitably equipped and experienced.
Looking at Bobs Bluff from the east side the Nose Route almost follows the left (south) end skyline for most of its height. Looking along the wall to the right, just over half way along, a conical gully is visible in the top of the wall. Vagabond finishes in this gully.
Descent is by climbing upwards along the spine of the bluff, and descending scoria slopes.
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nose Route | 15 | 55m |
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Climb lower buttress (variety of routes possible) for full rope length belaying near the bottom of the obvious upper corner. Then either traverse left round the nose and move to top on slabs (original route) or finish direct via the upper corner moving over a chockstone (15).
M Andrews, P Boomen, 1976. Direct finish: Andy Harris, Stuart Skene, 1981
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| Vagabond | 16,16 | 58m |
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This is a nice climb if anyone ever goes back to repeat it!
Stuart Skene, Andy Harris, 18/03/81.
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