Bobs Bluff

(2 routes)

Bobs Bluff is the most remote of all Taranaki crags.


The best approach is from Dawson Falls via Fanthams Peak/Rangitoto Flat. Looking to the west, the very large east face of Bobs Bluff can be seen. Move across to the upper end of the face over easy scoria slopes. It is not recommended to traverse the slopes when snow is covering them, unless suitably equipped and experienced.
Looking at Bobs Bluff from the east side the Nose Route almost follows the left (south) end skyline for most of its height. Looking along the wall to the right, just over half way along, a conical gully is visible in the top of the wall. Vagabond finishes in this gully.
Descent is by climbing upwards along the spine of the bluff, and descending scoria slopes.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Nose Route 15 55m
wire representing trad
Climb lower buttress (variety of routes possible) for full rope length belaying near the bottom of the obvious upper corner. Then either traverse left round the nose and move to top on slabs (original route) or finish direct via the upper corner moving over a chockstone (15).
M Andrews, P Boomen, 1976. Direct finish: Andy Harris, Stuart Skene, 1981
Vagabond 16,16 58m
wire representing trad
This is a nice climb if anyone ever goes back to repeat it!
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad

At the base of the wall (below the gully described previously) there is a thin vertical area of red rock. Climb the crack systems just left of this red rock to a small ledge (in the thin horizontal band of poorer rock which runs the whole length of the cliff). Move up off this for several metres to a belay at the right end of a slab which runs leftwards under the bulging overhangs to the base of the gully.


Traverse the slabs and move up into the gully to where a final belay can be found.

Stuart Skene, Andy Harris, 18/03/81.