The sea cliffs and boulders at this popular holiday spot had been known about by Phil Giles for some time. However, the first climbs were put up only recently in preparation for this guide. There is potential for plenty more, plus bouldering, although the area will probably never develop into a major crag. The awesome setting makes it a good choice on a warm summer’s day.
Climbing notes
Bring your togs and fishing line as the climbing is right on the water’s edge. This can make for interesting ascents if the surf is big. The rock is limestone up to 10m high of varying quality.
Generally the faces offer the best climbing, and there is potential for some really good short fingery routes.
From Auckland take the main highway north till about 30km south of Whangarei. Turn right at Waipu township for Waipu Cove, parking in the carpark at the southern end of the beach. Cross the stream and follow a coastal track for about 8 minutes to the Midway Crag and a further 4 minutes to The Point. Stick to the track as it borders private property. Camping and water are available at the motorcamp.
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