Tokatoka

(4 routes)

Introduction
Tokatoka is a similar but inferior volcanic plug just south of Mangaraho. First climbed in 1966 by John Maine and Pete Matthews, the crag saw little further activity until Bryce Martin, John Smith and Dave Garrity put up three routes in 1995.
There is potential for some good routes on the short steep walls, but on the whole the rock is not as good quality as its more popular neighbour.
Climbing notes
The rock varies from being reasonably solid to flaky and broken. The East Face route is vague, but the recent lines are more obvious and have good natural pro or bolts.

Type: 
Crag
Access: 

From Auckland, head north to Brynderwyn, then
left on Provincial Highway 12 through Ruawai to the Tokatoka Tavern. Follow the side road behind the pub to the reserve. Look for a stile, then walk up the farmland by the boundary fence.

Lat/Lon: 
-36.057262000000, 173.974965000000
NZMS260: 
P08 984 711
Topo50: 
AY29 878 093
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
East Face 12 70m
0
wire representing trad
Starts from the paddock at the foot of the face. Gain height via a bushy gut on the extreme right at the foot of the face. Continue on dubious rock and vegetation to the final basalt pillars, and climb these to the summit trig station.
John Maine, Pete Matthews, 1966
It’s Now Or Never 17 25m
1.02
6bolts wire representing trad
At the left-hand end of the slabs beneath a pair of large totara. Follow six bolts to chain belay. A fine laid-back route with interesting moves on solid rock.
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin, 1994
White Anglo Saxon Protestant 14 35m
0
wire representing trad
A big curving crack with natural pro, about 10 m right of It’s Now Or Never. Look for a small tree about 6 m off the ground. Climb up to and past this, then follow the crack left to the top bolt on It’s Now Or Never. Up to chain belay.
John Smith, Bryce Martin, John Webb, 1995
Klingon 21 15m
1.02
6bolts
About 20 m to the left of It’s Now Or Never. Follow a line of 6 bolts through the crux near the top. Chain belay.
Bryce Martin, John Smith 1995
Attribution: 
By Paul Hersey