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Tokatoka

Type
Part of

Introduction
Tokatoka is a similar but inferior volcanic plug just south of Mangaraho. First climbed in 1966 by John Maine and Pete Matthews, the crag saw little further activity until Bryce Martin, John Smith and Dave Garrity put up three routes in 1995.
There is potential for some good routes on the short steep walls, but on the whole the rock is not as good quality as its more popular neighbour.
Climbing notes
The rock varies from being reasonably solid to flaky and broken. The East Face route is vague, but the recent lines are more obvious and have good natural pro or bolts.

Image
Lat/lon
POINT (173.974965 -36.057262)
Topo50
AY29 878 093
Access

From Auckland, head north to Brynderwyn, then
left on Provincial Highway 12 through Ruawai to the Tokatoka Tavern. Follow the side road behind the pub to the reserve. Look for a stile, then walk up the farmland by the boundary fence.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 East Face, 12 12 70m
0

  • P1
  • 12
  • 70m
  • Trad

Starts from the paddock at the foot of the face. Gain height via a bushy gut on the extreme right at the foot of the face. Continue on dubious rock and vegetation to the final basalt pillars, and climb these to the summit trig station.


 It’s Now Or Never, 17 17 25m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 17
  • 25m
  • 6
  • Trad

At the left-hand end of the slabs beneath a pair of large totara. Follow six bolts to chain belay. A fine laid-back route with interesting moves on solid rock.


 White Anglo Saxon Protestant, 14 14 35m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 35m
  • Trad

A big curving crack with natural pro, about 10 m right of It’s Now Or Never. Look for a small tree about 6 m off the ground. Climb up to and past this, then follow the crack left to the top bolt on It’s Now Or Never. Up to chain belay.


 Klingon, 21 21 15m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 15m
  • 6

About 20m to the left of It’s Now Or Never. Follow a line of 6 bolts through the crux near the top. Chain belay.


Comments
Attribution
By Paul Hersey
UUID
 
b4f68fc7-ab2b-4102-bed4-4d75436c7f30