Tokatoka | ClimbNZ

(4 routes)

Introduction
Tokatoka is a similar but inferior volcanic plug just south of Mangaraho. First climbed in 1966 by John Maine and Pete Matthews, the crag saw little further activity until Bryce Martin, John Smith and Dave Garrity put up three routes in 1995.
There is potential for some good routes on the short steep walls, but on the whole the rock is not as good quality as its more popular neighbour.
Climbing notes
The rock varies from being reasonably solid to flaky and broken. The East Face route is vague, but the recent lines are more obvious and have good natural pro or bolts.

Type:

Crag

Access:

From Auckland, head north to Brynderwyn, then
left on Provincial Highway 12 through Ruawai to the Tokatoka Tavern. Follow the side road behind the pub to the reserve. Look for a stile, then walk up the farmland by the boundary fence.

Map, Topo

Lat/Lon:

-36.057262000000, 173.974965000000

NZMS260:

P08 984 711

Topo50:

AY29 878 093

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Title	Grade	Length	Quality	Bolts
East Face	12	70m	0
Starts from the paddock at the foot of the face. Gain height via a bushy gut on the extreme right at the foot of the face. Continue on dubious rock and vegetation to the final basalt pillars, and climb these to the summit trig station. John Maine, Pete Matthews, 1966
It’s Now Or Never	17	25m	1.02	6
At the left-hand end of the slabs beneath a pair of large totara. Follow six bolts to chain belay. A fine laid-back route with interesting moves on solid rock. Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin, 1994
White Anglo Saxon Protestant	14	35m	0
A big curving crack with natural pro, about 10 m right of It’s Now Or Never. Look for a small tree about 6 m off the ground. Climb up to and past this, then follow the crack left to the top bolt on It’s Now Or Never. Up to chain belay. John Smith, Bryce Martin, John Webb, 1995
Klingon	21	15m	1.02	6
About 20m to the left of It’s Now Or Never. Follow a line of 6 bolts through the crux near the top. Chain belay. Bryce Martin, John Smith 1995

Attribution:

By Paul Hersey

UUID:

b4f68fc7-ab2b-4102-bed4-4d75436c7f30