Introduction
Tokatoka is a similar but inferior volcanic plug just south of Mangaraho. First climbed in 1966 by John Maine and Pete Matthews, the crag saw little further activity until Bryce Martin, John Smith and Dave Garrity put up three routes in 1995.
There is potential for some good routes on the short steep walls, but on the whole the rock is not as good quality as its more popular neighbour.
Climbing notes
The rock varies from being reasonably solid to flaky and broken. The East Face route is vague, but the recent lines are more obvious and have good natural pro or bolts.
From Auckland, head north to Brynderwyn, then
left on Provincial Highway 12 through Ruawai to the Tokatoka Tavern. Follow the side road behind the pub to the reserve. Look for a stile, then walk up the farmland by the boundary fence.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
East Face | 12 | 70m | ||||
It’s Now Or Never | 17 | 25m | 6 | |||
White Anglo Saxon Protestant | 14 | 35m | ||||
Klingon | 21 | 15m | 6 |