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Northeast Slabs

CLOSED: Permanently closed. Please do not climb here.
Updated 24 January 2026, by Richard Thomson.
Type

Climbing is not permitted on Pukepohatu Bald Rock. This information is provided as a record only.
On the north side of the summit is a small quarry. To the left of this is an area of slabs and large flakes.

Aspect
North East
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Dissection variation, 20 20
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • Trad

Start down and to the left by a stump and
small blocks. Climb thin flakes for a few
metres then move right to join Dissection by
the jutting flake.


 Dissection, 16 16 25m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 25m
  • Trad

Start just left of the corner and climb up level
with the jutting flake. Follow the thin cracks
and flakes up the slab, past a small shrub. Move
left under the large overhang to finish.


 Crown Topper, 15 15 22m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 22m
  • Trad

Down and left is a stand of manuka by a
corner. Start right of the corner, gain the ledge
at 2m then follow the arete to a ledge. Finish
up Fingertips.


 Fingertips, 16 16 20m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 20m
  • Trad

Three metres to the left of Shiva is a rightward
tending crack. Gain the flakes above the crack
and follow to the crack’s closure. Reach up
to an edge below a white scar, mantle onto
this and gain the ledge above. Move left two
metres and climb a short groove to the top.


 Shiva, 16 16 18m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 18m
  • Trad

Gain the ledge as for Bastille. Follow the
left ward slanting crack to large pointed flake.
Follow the crack on its right-hand side.


 Bastille, 17 17 10m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 10m
  • Trad

To find this route head about six metres left, just past a small manuka. Gain the ledge at 2m. climb the pocketed wall right of the left ward slanting crack. No pro.


 Guillotine, 16 16 13m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 13m
  • Trad

Follow the left ward slanting edge and crack.
Variation: At 2m climb direct past the jutting
flake (15).


 Cop-Out, 15 15 10m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 10m
  • Trad

Two metres to the left of Flake Out, is a left ward slanting
edge. Start at the foot of this and climb to a
pointed flake, gaining it from the right. Ascend
the skyline V notch above.
Variation: Climb the flake direct at its lowest
point (17).


 Flake-Out, 12 12 10m
0

  • P1
  • 12
  • 10m
  • Trad

Start beneath the hanging flakes at the righthand
side of the slabs. Climb beneath a flake to
reach a higher fl ake which forms an overhang.
This is surmounted using the bisecting crack.


Comments
Attribution
Paul Hersey
UUID
 
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