This is the main event of the area. As the above directions imply, it is the first
boulder you see on your left when walking up the DoC track from the parking
area. Although it may not look like much from above..... it offers some beautiful
overhung problems as well as a few TALL (6 metre+) slab climbs. This guide
only lists the obvious lines on the boulder, but there are HEAPS of eliminates
and variations to play with if you really want to get the most mileage out of the
trip out!
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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1 | 1Walk in the Park, -4 | -4 | |||||
(Vscary) Starting from just left of the true arete, step onto the main face and walk up diagonally right on slopey holds, following the angle of the rock. This is a no hands climb and the crux is just keeping your balance so ONLY your feet touch as you walk up (no leg smears!). |
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2 | 2Nathen's Nasty Arete, V3 | V3 | |||||
LOW sit start by the left edge using bad holds and a miserable toe under the "roof." Pop your left hand up to a gaston, then roll up to a good hold higher up. Finish straight up the (VE) slab. |
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3 | 3Game On, V3 | V3 | |||||
Practically a laydown start, use two bad slopers and a right heal hook to pull your arse off the ground and creep your fingers up to a somewhat positive rail which always seems JUST out of reach. Once you've pulled up from that, finish up the (VM) slab above or just jump down. |
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4 | 4Balance | ||||||
This problem will be some what height dependent, if you are short you may run out of feet earlier.
sit start on the massive undercling, pull up onto the face on desperate slopers and go ..... somewhere! |
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5 | 5Sunnies, V3 | V3 | |||||
Sit start using the 2 good crimps on either side of the bulgy arete/ low roof, just left of the center line of the boulder. Pull up and pop to a right hand sloper, then up to a BIG jug on the left. mantle the bulge and either finish up the face or just walk off left. |
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6 | 6Maud, V2 | V2 | |||||
Start standing in between "Sunnies" and "Momen-Tea-Tree Lapse of Reason" with the left hand on the slopey edge and the right on the undercling of "MTTLR." Toss up to the "MTTLR" jug with the right, pull up and exit left. A HARD sit start is currently in the works and is open to anyone to try. |
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7 | 7Momen-Tea-Tree Lapse of Reason, V5 | V5 | |||||
Stand start by the black streak with hands matched on the "good" undercling. Pull off the ground and throw to the good jug on the left edge of the arete, just by the corner. Pull up, mantle and run up the whole arete to the top. This quality line was a standing project for a LONG time... it was finally sent when all previous beta was forgotten about and nothing but a good honest "ompff" was used! |
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8 | 8Jetlagged Direct, V4 | V4 | |||||
Sit start just right of "MTTLR" foot hold on a good crimp and a BIG jug. Head straight up to a good sloper, a pocket and then the "Jetlagged" gaston. Pull up to the next good rail of "JL" then finish above the tea tree on the left arete. |
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9 | 9Jetlagged, V3 | V3 | |||||
Starting at the big "x" made up of 2 crossing crack/ rails on the right side of the boulder from a crouching start, pop up to a good jug then head up and left to a gaston, a good rail and then the sloper/ jug on the low portion of the arete. Pull up by the tree and exit off left. This climb was sent 4 hours after getting off a 36 hour plane ride (including lay overs) from Boston, Massachusetts.... USA! After SOOO much sitting, sending a few lines was DEFINITELY in order. |
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10 | 10Snagglepuss, V0 | V0 | |||||
Stand start at the "x" and head straight up on good holds. There is one delicate move at about 2/3rd height. This climb is technically fairly easy, but it definitely has a fear factor due to the fall potential. It is recommended to have a few spotters and at least 3 pads! |
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11 | 11X-it Stage Right, VM | VM | |||||
Stand start at the "x" as for "JL" and "Sp," pull up to the big jug and head right with good feet. Finish standing on the small detatched boulder on the right. |
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12 | 12Searching for a Safer Hobbie, V1 | V1 | |||||
Somewhat of a direct start for "x-it," stand start just to the right of "x-it" on 2 crimps. Pull up and grab for the slopey right hand hold. Finish same as "x-it." |
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13 | 13Project | 3m | |||||
The blunt, right-hand arete. This line wants to start sitting on the bum breaking "cheater stone" using an odd, right hand undercling/ side pull/ pinch and pulls straight up and over the bulge on small, slopey holds go straight up to finish as for "x-it." |
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14 | 14Charlie's Arete, VM | VM | |||||
Sit start in the corner formed by tea tree boulder and the detatched, smaller boulder. Climb up the short, sharp, lay-back arete. |
Anyone know if this place is open and suitable for a family trip? If not, any suggestions for bouldering between Taupo and Wellington (no ropes until our shipment arrives!)? Cheers