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Top Tier

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The top tier is an extensive area with all kinds of rock features including a very large roof and overhang.
Back on the upper tier there is a 30 year old aid route, details unknown.

South West

Access to the top tier is difficult but a track does exist starting at the left hand of the crag past the base of Twister. Skirt round the base of the cliff till you reach a bush ramp leading up between the two tiers.
Access to the top of Maratoto is possible by following this ledge across to the right then skirting around the back and up to the summit.

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Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Reckless Abandon, 25 25 25m 12

Start at the rusty bolts on the face, climb through 3 bolts to a ledge then balance your way up to the roof, take a rest on the ledge and then attack the final crux through the steep lip. No anchors yet, plans to instal them on the next trip, until then there are 2 clips to lower from.

  • P1
  • 25
  • 25m
  • 12

 Bolting Aphrodisiacs, 18,A1 18,A1 70m 80

  • P1
  • 18
  • Aid A1
  • 70m
  • 80
  • Trad

Starting to the left of the big overhang this aid route goes right to the top of the crag. Exposed and overhanging, 5-6 pitchs. Descent can be done in four abseils . [Pro 80 bolts!, wires, hookes]

 Equanimity, 22 22 23m 9

Climb the face on good crimps and side pulls, balance your way through the middle section and top out just under the roof. Still needs anchors added.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 23m
  • 9

 The Land before Crime, 24 24 30m 13

Climb over several bulges before attacking the roof, the headwall is where the most technical moves are on good crimps. Extend the roof quick draw and the one below it if you don't want rope drag. This route is climbable but still needs an anchor installed which I will do in the coming weeks. Currently there are a couple of clips at the top to rap from.

  • P1
  • 24
  • 30m
  • 13

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