Short Side (CLOSED)

(30 routes)

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE - see access notes.

Has routes of up to 10 metres.
The Short Side is generally more suitable for learners, with shorter climbs and lower grades.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South West
Access: 

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE. NZAC Auckland section is working with the school to reach a solution. Please DO NOT CLIMB OR BOULDER at the short side.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
SC Secret Crack 17
0
wire representing trad
The prominent corner and varied crack.
St Svartmoot 16
0
wire representing trad
Ledges lead to the final groove and crack.
ES Easy Street 12
0
wire representing trad
Climb a series of ledges up the slab to an awkward mantelshelf at the top before moving right to the top of the pillar.
Sg Smaug 14
0
wire representing trad
The crack to the left of Dong Buttress is climbed direct
Dg Dong 18
1.02
wire representing trad
The route straight up the pillar. Start just to the right of the rib, more left, and finish direct over the overlap
Gg Gog 15
1.02
wire representing trad
The crack to the right of Dong is climbed past a protruding block at half height.
Ty Trilogy 17
0
wire representing trad
A variation of Gog and Magog, bridging between the two to a final exciting pull-up over the overhang.
Mg Magog 15
0
wire representing trad
Up the rightwards-tending crack, with difficulty at the top
PC Parallel Cracks 16
0
wire representing trad
The thin crack which splits at half height. The upper section is the crux.
GD Geoff’s Dilemma 16
0
wire representing trad
The last crack on this short wall, most difficult at the top.
Tb Triblet
0
wire representing trad
Swing into the drill hole from the right and climb the thin crack by a series of awkward pull-ups. Disappear into the forest above.
GG Gamgee’s Groove 10
0
wire representing trad
The wide groove is climbed by any number of variations. Treat the loose soil at the top with circumspection
Sk Short Crack 13
0
wire representing trad
As the name implies, short and simple. Continue at will above the ledge.
Bt Boggart 19
1.02
wire representing trad
A classic crack. Above the small overhang at half height finish up the flake crack or escape left up the rib.
WP Wall of the Whinging Pom 22
1.02
wire representing trad
The thin crack. Start at the foot of Boggart and move across into the crack. If the thin crack immediately left of Treebeard is not utilised for the right hand, the grade is 24.
Tb Treebeard 16
1.02
wire representing trad
A good crack climb, with the crux at the bottom. The block at the top is usually turned on the right.
WT Wattle Tree Groove 15
0
wire representing trad
Climb the awkward small corner (crux) and continue up ledges and the wide crack above.
JD Jim’s Direct 15
0
wire representing trad
A long reach from the ground starts the route which climbs the face of the buttress direct
WC Wattle Tree Chimney 13
0
wire representing trad
A short layback to get established in the chimney. Exit left and follow a ramp to the top.
Rd Robbie’s Direct 17
0
wire representing trad
On the short wall right of the chimney a boulder problem sequence leads up to a mantelshelf ledge. Escape left.
RD Robbie’s Dilemma 15
0
wire representing trad
The crack immediately to the right is climbed to the ledge before moving off left.
PD Perkie’s Downfall
0
wire representing trad
Use either Robbie’s Direct or Robbie’s Dilemma as an approach, and continue up the right-tending groove above.
GM Green Machine 18
0
wire representing trad
Climb the shallow groove and bulge.
Ian Jenkins, David Croft 1989
MB Magic Boots 15
0
wire representing trad
Climb the low-angle slab using holds near the right edge.
MB Magic Boots 15
0
wire representing trad
Climb the low-angle slab using holds near the right edge.
WB Wellington Boots 23
0
wire representing trad
Climb the easy ramp to the foot of the steep wall, the start of which provides the crux. Grade 22 if this move is bypassed by reaching in from the right.
CB Cheating Boots 17
0
wire representing trad
From the ramp on Wellington Boots step delicately across the next corner to the arête. The crux move establishes one on the rib and easier climbing leads up and left to the top.
Coliseum 15
0
wire representing trad
About 35m to the right, in the corner of the field, is the highest piece of rock in this sec-tion of the Quarry:
Minus 14
0
wire representing trad
To the right of the Coliseum Buttress, on the back wall of the Quarry and partially hidden by trees, is a short wall with a small tree at half height. This provides the following short route:
The Short Side Girdle
0
For a longer route than any of the above:
UUID: 
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