Short Side (CLOSED)

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE - see access notes.

Has routes of up to 10 metres.
The Short Side is generally more suitable for learners, with shorter climbs and lower grades.

Type:

Wall

Aspect:

South West

Access:

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE. NZAC Auckland section is working with the school to reach a solution. Please DO NOT CLIMB OR BOULDER at the short side.

Reference	Title	Grade	Quality
SC	Secret Crack	17	0
	The prominent corner and varied crack.
St	Svartmoot	16	0
	Ledges lead to the final groove and crack.
ES	Easy Street	12	0
	Climb a series of ledges up the slab to an awkward mantelshelf at the top before moving right to the top of the pillar.
Sg	Smaug	14	0
	The crack to the left of Dong Buttress is climbed direct
Dg	Dong	18	1.02
	The route straight up the pillar. Start just to the right of the rib, more left, and finish direct over the overlap
Gg	Gog	15	1.02
	The crack to the right of Dong is climbed past a protruding block at half height.
Ty	Trilogy	17	0
	A variation of Gog and Magog, bridging between the two to a final exciting pull-up over the overhang.
Mg	Magog	15	0
	Up the rightwards-tending crack, with difficulty at the top
PC	Parallel Cracks	16	0
	The thin crack which splits at half height. The upper section is the crux.
GD	Geoff’s Dilemma	16	0
	The last crack on this short wall, most difficult at the top.
Tb	Triblet		0
	Swing into the drill hole from the right and climb the thin crack by a series of awkward pull-ups. Disappear into the forest above.
GG	Gamgee’s Groove	10	0
	The wide groove is climbed by any number of variations. Treat the loose soil at the top with circumspection
Sk	Short Crack	13	0
	As the name implies, short and simple. Continue at will above the ledge.
Bt	Boggart	19	1.02
	A classic crack. Above the small overhang at half height finish up the flake crack or escape left up the rib.
WP	Wall of the Whinging Pom	22	1.02
	The thin crack. Start at the foot of Boggart and move across into the crack. If the thin crack immediately left of Treebeard is not utilised for the right hand, the grade is 24.
Tb	Treebeard	16	1.02
	A good crack climb, with the crux at the bottom. The block at the top is usually turned on the right.
WT	Wattle Tree Groove	15	0
	Climb the awkward small corner (crux) and continue up ledges and the wide crack above.
JD	Jim’s Direct	15	0
	A long reach from the ground starts the route which climbs the face of the buttress direct
WC	Wattle Tree Chimney	13	0
	A short layback to get established in the chimney. Exit left and follow a ramp to the top.
Rd	Robbie’s Direct	17	0
	On the short wall right of the chimney a boulder problem sequence leads up to a mantelshelf ledge. Escape left.
RD	Robbie’s Dilemma	15	0
	The crack immediately to the right is climbed to the ledge before moving off left.
PD	Perkie’s Downfall		0
	Use either Robbie’s Direct or Robbie’s Dilemma as an approach, and continue up the right-tending groove above.
GM	Green Machine	18	0
	Climb the shallow groove and bulge. Ian Jenkins, David Croft 1989
MB	Magic Boots	15	0
	Climb the low-angle slab using holds near the right edge.
MB	Magic Boots	15	0
	Climb the low-angle slab using holds near the right edge.
WB	Wellington Boots	23	0
	Climb the easy ramp to the foot of the steep wall, the start of which provides the crux. Grade 22 if this move is bypassed by reaching in from the right.
CB	Cheating Boots	17	0
	From the ramp on Wellington Boots step delicately across the next corner to the arête. The crux move establishes one on the rib and easier climbing leads up and left to the top.
	Coliseum	15	0
	About 35m to the right, in the corner of the field, is the highest piece of rock in this sec-tion of the Quarry:
	Minus	14	0
	To the right of the Coliseum Buttress, on the back wall of the Quarry and partially hidden by trees, is a short wall with a small tree at half height. This provides the following short route:
	The Short Side Girdle		0
	For a longer route than any of the above:

(30 routes)