Long Side. Right Hand End (CLOSED)

Type

Part of

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE - see access notes.

The right hand end of the Long side, from Studio 54 to 'it Man.
Most routes are about 15 to 20 metres in height. The Long Side comes into its own for climb-ers competent at around grade 18 and above.

Approach

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE. NZAC Auckland section is working with the school to reach a solution. Please DO NOT CLIMB OR BOULDER at the long side.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
54	54Studio 54, 26	26			2.01
P1 26 Trad Beautiful sequins. Dynamic moves up the buttress.
PL	PLPrinciples of Lust, 21	21		3	1.02
P1 21 3 Climb the crack until level with the second bolt — a lewd move across the wall is followed by fun climbing on the arête.
ds	dsDirect Start, 26	26		4	0
P1 26 4 The contrived direct start avoids the crack.
Tr	TrThimblerigger, 21	21			2.01
P1 21 Trad The groove with a thin crack in its right side is climbed with increasing difficulty to the ledge on the right. Cross back left to the top of Principles of Lust, or continue up the right-leaning slab.
Ba	BaBarracuda, 22	22			0
P1 22 Trad Scramble to the ledge and proceed up the thin crack to a bulge at the top (crux) and ledges. Finish straight up or out right.
Sq	SqSoliloquy, 18	18			1.02
P1 18 Trad Cracking climbing. Climb the crack direct (or, easier, swing into it from the ledge on the left). Small ledges lead to a pull up left onto broken ledges. Proceed up to the overhang and finish through the notch on the right.
TS	TSTraining for Straining, 25	25			1.02
P1 25 Trad The splendid gothic arch. From a shattered area climb the strenuous but well-protected thin crack. Harder if you avoid the temptation to step left onto narrow ledges halfway up Soliloquy.
BK	BKBad Karma, 26	26			0
P1 26 Trad The arête and corner crack requires a number of long reaches to gain the lichenous slab. Awkward to protect.
JO	JOJams O’Donnell, 24	24			1.02
P1 24 Trad The crack in the short, clean-cut corner. Finish up blocky terrain above.
TI	TITune In, Turn On, Drop Off, 25	25			0
P1 25 Trad Short, but strenuous moves in the 2 corners are a challenge. Finish up Jams O’Donnell or abseil off the threaded chain.
WK	WKWhen the Kat’s Away, 26	26			0
P1 26 Trad Stay in the right-hand corner all the way to the ledge.
Ms	MsMelquiades, 24	24		1	1.02
P1 24 1 Trad A difficult but rewarding sequence leads up the steep wall to a blast hole. Move left up to the ledge. Either follow the awkward groove to the top (tricky to protect) or finish up the Engineer.
EH	EHEngineer of Human Souls, 24	24		2	0
P1 24 2 Trad An excellent direct finish, takes the right-hand groove from the ledge.
Za	ZaZephania, 27	27	10m		0
P1 27 10m Trad Dynamic moves up the arête. No gear.
BB	BBBusted Bicycle, 25	25		2	0
P1 25 2 Trad Start at the shattered block and trend leftwards up the wall to the ledge. Move back right and climb the overhanging wall to an exciting finish out left over blocks.
Sr	SrSplatter, 24	24			0
P1 24 Trad From the shattered block a difficult move, awkward to protect, leads to the prominent ledge. Climb the fractured pillar above to a sloping ledge and exit carefully and diagonally left over scoria.
Tf	TfThe Towering Inferno, 25	25		1	1.02
P1 25 1 Trad The wide, yellow-streaked groove capped with an intimidating arch. Climb the groove to its apex, then move right into a thin crack to the top of the overhanging blocks. The scoria at the top will deal swiftly with the unwary.
FS	FSThe Frayed Ends of Sanity, 23	23		2	0
P1 23 2 Trad Straight up the right-hand edge of the Towering Inferno groove to the scoria.
Sb	SbSnatchbender, 23	23		1	2.01
P1 23 1 Trad A classic test-piece. Stepped ledges lead up into a groove. Climb this to its apex on the right and pull over the overhang to a wall pocket on the left. Make an awkward step left into the square groove and shuffle up to the overhang. Climb the overhang on the right to a ledge and pull over the bulge to finish.
Sd	SdSnatchbender direct, 23	23		2	1.02
P1 23 2 Trad Climb direct up the arête to the roof.
Bh	BhBad Behaviour, 23	23		2	1.02
P1 23 2 Trad Shares the start and finish of Snatchbender, but where that route moves left pull over the bulge and continue straight up.
CC	CCChasing After Charlie, 24	24		4	1.02
P1 24 4 Trad Climb the shield of rock and thin crack. Move left, pull up through the bulge, and finish up the right-leaning groove (or left as for Snatchbender). Retrobolted.
df	dfDirect finish, 24	24		3	0
P1 24 3 Trad Finish straight up. Quite run out at the top.
Bh	BhBandersnatch, 19	19			2.01
P1 19 Trad A fine line. Ledges lead to the obvious corner. Climb this to the ledge above the right-hand arête. Belay here or finish right (the original finish) or left through an overhang (awkward).
RH	RHRH Arête, 22	22	0m		0
P1 22 Trad Climb the right-hand arête, using the crack solely for protection.
SM	SMSpanish Moon, 24	24			0
P1 24 Trad The shallow yellow corner. It helps to be tall when placing the first runners.
PC	PCPet Cemetery, 27	27		2	1.02
P1 27 2 Trad The thin corner and rib. A 12-metre saga of steamy stemming and violent cranking which relentlessly explores the obsessive themes of guilt, lust, fear and revenge. So they say. The first bolt is at the site of the original first knifeblade, rather than where it was tied-off, so feel free to stick-clip. Finish up the seam with small wires.
bf	bfButtress finish, 27	27		3	0
P1 27 3 Finish up the buttress, past a third bolt.
SO	SOStraight Outta Clapton, 27	27		2	0
P1 27 2 Trad Start at the base of the right side of the buttress, boulder up to the holes, borrow the middle moves of Pet Cemetery on the left side, then move back right to finish up the hanging groove.
SS	SSSilver Surfer, 25	25			2.01
P1 25 Trad The serrated crack encourages dynamism and boldness. Sheer masochism, but bloody great all the same.
Ot	OtOrangutang, 19	19			0
P1 19 Trad The prominent corner at the right-hand end of the crag. The crux is near the bottom of the corner. At the top, cross left and finish up the upper groove. Rick McGregor, July 19739
NC	NCNight of the Crabs, 20	20			0
P1 20 Trad Night of the Crabs 20 Climb the right-hand arête of Orangutang without recourse to the crack.
	Badfinger, 21	21			0
P1 21 Trad From ledges, climb the corner to gain another ledge out right (crux). Proceed over the bulge above direct on incut holds. Adequate protection can be difficult to arrange.
	Contested Corner, 17	17			0
P1 17 Trad Further right and higher up is an even shorter corner. This can be climbed to its conclusion, or exit left onto the ledge of Badfinger and finish up right.
	'it Man, 21	21	0m		0
P1 21 Trad The thin crack on the short separate face 5 m down and to the right, in the trees.

Comments

UUID

328aaac5-f0eb-4ceb-9a81-5866d8e61bb0