Long Side. Right Hand End (CLOSED)

(35 routes)

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE - see access notes.

The right hand end of the Long side, from Studio 54 to 'it Man.
Most routes are about 15 to 20 metres in height. The Long Side comes into its own for climb-ers competent at around grade 18 and above.

Type: 
Wall
Access: 

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE. NZAC Auckland section is working with the school to reach a solution. Please DO NOT CLIMB OR BOULDER at the long side.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
54 Studio 54 26
2.01
wire representing trad
Beautiful sequins. Dynamic moves up the buttress.
Charlie Creese, September 1981
PL Principles of Lust 21
1.02
3bolts
Climb the crack until level with the second bolt — a lewd move across the wall is followed by fun climbing on the arête.
John van der Werff, 1994
ds Direct Start 26
0
4bolts
The contrived direct start avoids the crack.
Tr Thimblerigger 21
2.01
wire representing trad
The groove with a thin crack in its right side is climbed with increasing difficulty to the ledge on the right. Cross back left to the top of Principles of Lust, or continue up the right-leaning slab.
Rick McGregor, October 1975
Ba Barracuda 22
0
wire representing trad
Scramble to the ledge and proceed up the thin crack to a bulge at the top (crux) and ledges. Finish straight up or out right.
Robbie McBirney, September 1977
Sq Soliloquy 18
1.02
wire representing trad
Cracking climbing. Climb the crack direct (or, easier, swing into it from the ledge on the left). Small ledges lead to a pull up left onto broken ledges. Proceed up to the overhang and finish through the notch on the right.
Robbie McBirney, July 1973
TS Training for Straining 25
1.02
wire representing trad
The splendid gothic arch. From a shattered area climb the strenuous but well-protected thin crack. Harder if you avoid the temptation to step left onto narrow ledges halfway up Soliloquy.
Rick McGregor, September 1981
BK Bad Karma 26
0
wire representing trad
The arête and corner crack requires a number of long reaches to gain the lichenous slab. Awkward to protect.
Charlie Creese, December 1981
JO Jams O’Donnell 24
1.02
wire representing trad
The crack in the short, clean-cut corner. Finish up blocky terrain above.
Robbie McBirney, September 1977
TI Tune In, Turn On, Drop Off 25
0
wire representing trad
Short, but strenuous moves in the 2 corners are a challenge. Finish up Jams O’Donnell or abseil off the threaded chain.
Charlie Creese, March 1981
WK When the Kat’s Away 26
0
wire representing trad
Stay in the right-hand corner all the way to the ledge.
Alex Palman, November 1988
Ms Melquiades 24
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad
A difficult but rewarding sequence leads up the steep wall to a blast hole. Move left up to the ledge. Either follow the awkward groove to the top (tricky to protect) or finish up the Engineer.
Robbie McBirney, September 1975
EH Engineer of Human Souls 24
0
2bolts wire representing trad
An excellent direct finish, takes the right-hand groove from the ledge.
Luke Newnham, 1989
Za Zephania 27 27
0
Dynamic moves up the arête.
Roland Foster, 1991
BB Busted Bicycle 25
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Start at the shattered block and trend leftwards up the wall to the ledge. Move back right and climb the overhanging wall to an exciting finish out left over blocks.
Rick McGregor, April 1981
Sr Splatter 24
0
wire representing trad
From the shattered block a difficult move, awkward to protect, leads to the prominent ledge. Climb the fractured pillar above to a sloping ledge and exit carefully and diagonally left over scoria.
Rick McGregor, October 1975
Tf The Towering Inferno 25
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad
The wide, yellow-streaked groove capped with an intimidating arch. Climb the groove to its apex, then move right into a thin crack to the top of the overhanging blocks. The scoria at the top will deal swiftly with the unwary.
Rick McGregor, February 1983
FS The Frayed Ends of Sanity 23
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Straight up the right-hand edge of the Towering Inferno groove to the scoria.
Alex Palman, 1989
Sb Snatchbender 23
2.01
1bolts wire representing trad
A classic test-piece. Stepped ledges lead up into a groove. Climb this to its apex on the right and pull over the overhang to a wall pocket on the left. Make an awkward step left into the square groove and shuffle up to the overhang. Climb the overhang on the right to a ledge and pull over the bulge to finish.
Robbie McBirney, November 1974
Sd Snatchbender direct 23
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
Climb direct up the arête to the roof.
Rick McGregor, January 1981
Bh Bad Behaviour 23
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
Shares the start and finish of Snatchbender, but where that route moves left pull over the bulge and continue straight up.
Peter Dickson, 1989
CC Chasing After Charlie 24
1.02
4bolts wire representing trad
Climb the shield of rock and thin crack. Move left, pull up through the bulge, and finish up the right-leaning groove (or left as for Snatchbender). Retrobolted.
Rick McGregor, February 1983
df Direct finish 24
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Finish straight up. Quite run out at the top.
Ton Snelder, December 1994
Bh Bandersnatch 19
2.01
wire representing trad
A fine line. Ledges lead to the obvious corner. Climb this to the ledge above the right-hand arête. Belay here or finish right (the original finish) or left through an overhang (awkward).
Rick McGregor, June 1974
RH RH Arête 22
0
Climb the right-hand arête, using the crack solely for protection.
SM Spanish Moon 24
0
wire representing trad
The shallow yellow corner. It helps to be tall when placing the first runners.
Charlie Creese, March 1981
PC Pet Cemetery 27
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
The thin corner and rib. A 12-metre saga of steamy stemming and violent cranking which relentlessly explores the obsessive themes of guilt, lust, fear and revenge. So they say. The first bolt is at the site of the original first knifeblade, rather than where it was tied-off, so feel free to stick-clip. Finish up the seam with small wires.
Charlie Creese, March 1982
bf Buttress finish 27
0
3bolts
Finish up the buttress, past a third bolt.
SO Straight Outta Clapton 27
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Start at the base of the right side of the buttress, boulder up to the holes, borrow the middle moves of Pet Cemetery on the left side, then move back right to finish up the hanging groove.
Tony Ward-Holmes, December 1991
SS Silver Surfer 25
2.01
wire representing trad
The serrated crack encourages dynamism and boldness. Sheer masochism, but bloody great all the same.
Charlie Creese, September 1981
Ot Orangutang 19
0
wire representing trad
The prominent corner at the right-hand end of the crag. The crux is near the bottom of the corner. At the top, cross left and finish up the upper groove. Rick McGregor, July 19739
Rick McGregor, July 1973
NC Night of the Crabs 20
0
wire representing trad
Night of the Crabs 20 Climb the right-hand arête of Orangutang without recourse to the crack.
Hunter Johnson (solo), January 1989
Badfinger 21
0
wire representing trad
From ledges, climb the corner to gain another ledge out right (crux). Proceed over the bulge above direct on incut holds. Adequate protection can be difficult to arrange.
Robbie McBirney, c 1975
Contested Corner 17
0
wire representing trad
Further right and higher up is an even shorter corner. This can be climbed to its conclusion, or exit left onto the ledge of Badfinger and finish up right.
'it Man 21
0
wire representing trad
The thin crack on the short separate face 5 m down and to the right, in the trees.
Marty Beare, August 1982