Long Side, Left Hand Side (CLOSED)

The rather shabby crack line.

Climb past a bolt on the lower tier to another bolt on the lichenous slab. A ½ or 1 cam is useful under the top flake.

The left-facing corner to easier ground above. An easier variant finishes right to the Bop Gun ledge.

The steep highball rib with a committing move to the ledge.

A short right-facing crack and corner. Crux at top.

The steep, sheer groove.

The steep, left-leaning groove. Though short, this is often regarded as a yardstick for the grade.

Easy climbing to reach the jugs, and a point of no return!

The thin overhanging crack through the buttress is strenuous and demanding to protect.

Finish straight up, still more strenuously.

The steep, thin groove. Morning Glory was the first route ever climbed at the Long Side, but the school demolished half of it leaving only this thin shallow groove.

A LH variant finish — once you’ve done all the hard stuff on Morning Glory.

An awkward mantle leads to the ledge and groove (which is the top of the original Morning Glory).

Describes a wide bow up the cliff from left to right and back again. Reach the ledge of Moral Dilemma either direct or from the start of Morning Glory Eliminate. Move right onto the next ledge then angle back left, into the ramp leading to the final groove of Moral Dilemma.

Take the groove between Moral Dilemma and the start of Shitbox Klingons. Continue up the arête above. Peter Dickson (solo), 1985

These two routes are described as originally climbed, but it is better to combine the bot-tom of one with the top of the other:

Climb the groove right of Shitbox Klingons, continue past the old fixed ring piton, and finish up the wide crack above.

A frustratingly tantalising prospect. Climb the blunt rib and continue directly above, right at the old ring piton to the ledges and final cracks of Kamikaze Krack or Shitbox Klingons.

A New Zealand classic and a defining moment for climbing in New Zealand. This fierce groove overhangs like a sausage, making the base of the route the driest place at the crag on a wet day. A boulder-problem start leads into the relentless groove. On a first attempt McBirney fell at the crux and ended in hospital. He then placed a piton (now a bolt). Twenty years later (the story goes), he re-enacted the ascent for dozens of onlookers and fell again just before the bolt with a bone-jarring thud. Unhurt, he dusted himself off and completed the climb next try.

Scene of some puffy post-ascent hands. Climb the overhanging groove past the luxury-length bolt at half height and up the finger crack above.

Tip-tearing moves lead leftward up the overhanging wall to reach a peapod groove and an easing but still difficult finish. (Only 27 if boulder mats, the bolt on Faulty Logic or pre-placed gear is used.) There were few routes harder than this in the world in 1981: at Arapiles, Cobwebs was climbed in December and the first French 8as not until 1982.

The worst joke at the crag? The wall with 2 bolts, straight up past the big hole.

Dubbed by one wag ‘Biggles Flies Further West’. Start at the pointy ledge and climb the thin crack left of Biggles Flies West. Clip the bolt on Faulty Logic if you can.

Harder than it looks. Follow the thin crack and do a ‘Bigglesworth’ to reach the ledge.

Moore climbed this sharp corner just hours after the column that formerly enclosed it collapsed — as he was soloing it!

Climb the buttress past one peg and a bolt.

Dalrymple is in fact Rick McGregor’s middle name. The prominent V-groove, somewhat difficult to protect.

Climb left to finish up Graveyard Groove.

The rib provides variety.

The prominent U-shaped groove. This bridging classic used to see some long falls — bolts now rather dampen the excitement.

The arête between Koruba and Nutcracker. Don’t use the cracks on either side.

Traverse up and right to the ledge at the bottom of the groove (or reach it direct — harder). Climb the groove, exiting right.

Up the arête to the break, then tackle the upper buttress.

McBirney was ‘just bouldering’ until he decided reversing back down was too difficult! Good moves in the V-groove lead to the blast hole, then move across into the groove proper. Good protection can be arranged in the crack of the eliminate.

Start up Sneakeasy but move left at the second bolt and finish direct up the buttress.

Stay left of the rib all the way.