CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE - see access notes.
Left Hand End. From Casual Regression to Wild Gravity Direct.
Most routes are about 15 to 20 metres in height. The Long Side comes into its own for climb-ers competent at around grade 18 and above.
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
North
Access:
CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE. NZAC Auckland section is working with the school to reach a solution. Please DO NOT CLIMB OR BOULDER at the long side.

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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Casual Regression | 15 |
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The rather shabby crack line.
John Smith, May 1995
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False Induction | 16 |
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Climb past a bolt on the lower tier to another bolt on the lichenous slab. A ½ or 1 cam is useful under the top flake.
John Smith, May 1995
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CS | Cliff Smith’s Corner | 16 |
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The left-facing corner to easier ground above. An easier variant finishes right to the Bop Gun ledge.
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BG | Bop Gun | 24 |
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The steep highball rib with a committing move to the ledge.
Charlie Creese (solo), February 1981
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BD | Brain Damage | 20 |
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A short right-facing crack and corner. Crux at top.
Len Gillman, 1977
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Df | Dekcuf | 24 |
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The steep, sheer groove.
Bryce Martin, September 1977
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TR | The Raven | 24 |
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The steep, left-leaning groove. Though short, this is often regarded as a yardstick for the grade.
Robbie McBirney, 1977
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Deffust | 18 |
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Easy climbing to reach the jugs, and a point of no return!
Robbie McBirney, July 1974
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Desolation Angel | 24 |
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The thin overhanging crack through the buttress is strenuous and demanding to protect.
Bryce Martin, 1977
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Direct Finish | 26 |
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Finish straight up, still more strenuously.
David Nepia, 1994
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Morning Glory Eliminate | 25 |
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The steep, thin groove. Morning Glory was the first route ever climbed at the Long Side, but the school demolished half of it leaving only this thin shallow groove.
Tony Ward-Holmes, April 1986
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Hear No Evil | 25 |
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A LH variant finish — once you’ve done all the hard stuff on Morning Glory.
Alex Palman, 1989
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Moral Dilemma | 18 |
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An awkward mantle leads to the ledge and groove (which is the top of the original Morning Glory).
Alex Palman, April 1985
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Playing Chicken | 18 |
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Describes a wide bow up the cliff from left to right and back again. Reach the ledge of Moral Dilemma either direct or from the start of Morning Glory Eliminate. Move right onto the next ledge then angle back left, into the ramp leading to the final groove of Moral Dilemma.
Geoff Bates, 1985
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Tears For Fears | 19 |
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Take the groove between Moral Dilemma and the start of Shitbox Klingons. Continue up the arête above. Peter Dickson (solo), 1985
Peter Dickson (solo), 1985
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Shitbox Klingons | 20 |
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These two routes are described as originally climbed, but it is better to
combine the bot-tom of one with the top of the other:
Bryan Moore, 1985
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Kamikaze Krack | 20 |
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Climb the groove right of Shitbox Klingons, continue past the old fixed ring piton, and finish up the wide crack above.
Peter Dickson, 1985
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Yuppie Floosie | 26 |
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A frustratingly tantalising prospect. Climb the blunt rib and continue directly above, right at the old ring piton to the ledges and final cracks of Kamikaze Krack or Shitbox Klingons.
Tony Ward-Holmes, 1987
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Supergroove | 26 |
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A New Zealand classic and a defining moment for climbing in New Zealand. This fierce groove overhangs like a sausage, making the base of the route the driest place at the crag on a wet day. A boulder-problem start leads into the relentless groove. On a first attempt McBirney fell at the crux and ended in hospital. He then placed a piton (now a bolt). Twenty years later (the story goes), he re-enacted the ascent for dozens of onlookers and fell again just before the bolt with a bone-jarring thud. Unhurt, he dusted himself off and completed the climb next try.
Robbie McBirney, November 1976
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Perennial Pipedreams | 26 |
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Scene of some puffy post-ascent hands. Climb the overhanging groove past the luxury-length bolt at half height and up the finger crack above.
Rick McGregor, January 1983
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Blam, Blam, Blam | 28 |
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Tip-tearing moves lead leftward up the overhanging wall to reach a peapod groove and an easing but still difficult finish. (Only 27 if boulder mats, the bolt on Faulty Logic or pre-placed gear is used.) There were few routes harder than this in the world in 1981: at Arapiles, Cobwebs was climbed in December and the first French 8as not until 1982.
Charlie Creese, November 1981
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Faulty Logic | 27 |
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The worst joke at the crag? The wall with 2 bolts, straight up past the big hole.
Kim Carrigan, February 1986
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Effort, Money and Time | 24 |
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Dubbed by one wag ‘Biggles Flies Further West’. Start at the pointy ledge and climb the thin crack left of Biggles Flies West. Clip the bolt on Faulty Logic if you can.
Bolke Water, February 1992
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Biggles Flies West | 21 |
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Harder than it looks. Follow the thin crack and do a ‘Bigglesworth’ to reach the ledge.
Grant Davidson, November 1980
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Graveyard Groove | 17 |
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Moore climbed this sharp corner just hours after the column that formerly enclosed it collapsed — as he was soloing it!
Bryan Moore, June 1984
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Biggles Sucks a Kumara | 22 |
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Climb the buttress past one peg and a bolt.
Peter Dickson, August 1984
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Dalrymple’s Groove | 18 |
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Dalrymple is in fact Rick McGregor’s middle name. The prominent V-groove, somewhat difficult to protect.
Robbie McBirney, 1973
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LH Finish | 17 |
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Climb left to finish up Graveyard Groove.
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Diddely Dick | 23 |
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The rib provides variety.
Rick McGregor, 1981
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Koruba | 17 |
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The prominent U-shaped groove. This bridging classic used to see some long falls — bolts now rather dampen the excitement.
Rick McGregor, 1974q
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Nutless | 18 |
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The arête between Koruba and Nutcracker. Don’t use the cracks on either side.
Peter Dickson (solo), 1985
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Nutcracker | 16 |
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Traverse up and right to the ledge at the bottom of the groove (or reach it direct — harder). Climb the groove, exiting right.
Robbie McBirney, May 1973
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Thunderpussy | 25 |
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Up the arête to the break, then tackle the upper buttress.
Peter Dickson, 1988
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Green Groove | 21 |
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McBirney was ‘just bouldering’ until he decided reversing back down was too difficult! Good moves in the V-groove lead to the blast hole, then move across into the groove proper. Good protection can be arranged in the crack of the eliminate.
Robbie McBirney (solo), September 1974
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Wild Gravity | 24 |
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Start up Sneakeasy but move left at the second bolt and finish direct up the buttress.
Alex Palman, August 1987
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WGD | Wild Gravity Direct | 26 |
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Stay left of the rib all the way.
Troy Stevenson, March 1996
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