Bouldering (Long Side) (CLOSED)

Type

Part of

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE - see access notes.

Just as there is a surprising amount of climbing packed into the tight grooves of the Quarry, there is plenty of bouldering too. Listed here is a selection of the classic problems (and projects).

Approach

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE. NZAC Auckland section is working with the school to reach a solution. Please DO NOT CLIMB OR BOULDER at the long side.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Quality
Lm	LmGhost Face, V12	V12	0
P1 Hueco V12 Previously known as the Leftism Project. One of the ‘last great problems’ at the Quarry, climb the face only . . . left of the Bop Gun arête.
LT	LTThe Long Side Traverse, V8	V8	0
P1 Hueco V8 The complete Long Side traverse from Orangutang to Bop Gun is an impressive achievement. First completed right-to-left, to finish up Bop Gun for a great finale. It has also been done left-to-right (FA Danny Wood), and there-and-back! (FA Troy Stevenson).
BG	BGBop Gun, V3	V3	0
P1 Hueco V3 The steep highball rib with a committing move to the ledge.
Ds	DsDeffust direct start, V1	V1	0
P1 Hueco V1 To the first horizontal break without using the right arete.
M-B	M-BMoral Dilemma – The Blam, V6	V6	0
P1 Hueco V6
KK	KKKamikaze Krack, V0	V0	0
P1 Hueco V0 Climb until your hands are at the ledge on the left
YF	YFYuppie Floosie start, V2	V2	0
P1 Hueco V2 Climb shallow buttress to small edge on left.
Ss	SsSupergroove start, V4	V4	0
P1 Hueco V4 Climb start of Supergroove to small horizontal break.
PP	PPPerennial Pipedreams, V4	V4	0
P1 Hueco V4 start — to the horizontal break on the right rib
SA	SAScott’s Arête, V9	V9	0
P1 Hueco V9 Start with LH in Perennial Pipedreams crack, and climb the arête.
BB	BBBlam, Blam, Blam, V6	V6	0
P1 Hueco V6 The first few moves, up and across
BP	BPBoulevard Périphérique, V4	V4	0
P1 Hueco V4 Campus traverse (no feet) from the bottom of Dalrymple’s Groove to the edge of Thunderpussy.
Tp	TpThunderpussy, V3	V3	0
P1 Hueco V3 Start up the arete to the break.
GG	GGGreen Groove, V1	V1	0
P1 Hueco V1 Up the groove to the blast hole and step left.
G-B	G-BGreen Groove – Bodysnatcher, V7	V7	0
P1 Hueco V7 A low traverse.
LM	LMLivesay Madness, V3	V3	0
P1 Hueco V3 Up Wild Gravity to the ledges and thenright, staying at that height and down LegsThis Wide.
Zd	ZdZillmerised, V8	V8	0
P1 Hueco V8 The leaning, sloping arête underneath Wild Gravity and Sneak Easy.
ST	STShort Traverse, V3	V3	0
P1 Hueco V3 This long, moderate traverse fromBodysnatcher to Momrath can be done ineither direction and has its moments.
Me	MeMethadone, V9	V9	0
P1 Hueco V9 Face only right of Bodysnatcher start, up to small ledge on right
Hs	HsHeat start, V3	V3	0
P1 Hueco V3 Climb the initial buttress to the jugs
Wd	WdWired, V3	V3	0
P1 Hueco V3 Start to the ledges on the right, and back down the start of Black Stump.
MA	MAManic Arête, V4	V4	0
P1 Hueco V4 The arête between Wired and Black Stump.
Sb	SbSuperbitch, V6	V6	0
P1 Hueco V6 Climb the left side of the arête only, without using holds on the right of the arête or the left crack.
Sg	SgSilver Airman groove, V2	V2	0
P1 Hueco V2 Up the groove, straight to the ledge or exiting right.
Sb	SbSilver Airman buttress, V1	V1	0
P1 Hueco V1 Climb the buttress and mantle the top.
MP	MPMaisola Party, V2	V2	0
P1 Hueco V2 To the hold on the arete on the right
Mh	MhMomrath, V0	V0	0
P1 Hueco V0 Momrath V0 Up the grey wall from the left or the right.
AT	ATAmpitheatre Traverse, V6	V6	0
P1 Hueco V6 From the Momrath ledge to Shoes ThisHigh. Or vice versa.
AB	ABAnother Broken Hero, V5	V5	0
P1 Hueco V5 Climb to the blast hole and escape off left.
Ku	KuKaikansu, V6	V6	0
P1 Hueco V6 The arete, without using the crack on the left or moving right at the top.
ZL	ZLZorn’s Lemma, V5	V5	0
P1 Hueco V5 As far as the first bolt.
SH	SHShoes This High, V2	V2	0
P1 Hueco V2 The groove or arete, to the ledge on the right.
RL	RLRevenge of the Lawn left, V0	V0	0
P1 Hueco V0 Up the left-hand groove to the ledge.
RR	RRRevenge of the Lawn right, VM	VM	0
P1 Hueco VM Up the right-hand groove to the ledge.
Be	BeBanshee, V1	V1	0
P1 Hueco V1 The thin crack, exiting left at or below the ledge.
B-D	B-DBanshee – Diddely Dick, V4	V4	0
P1 Hueco V4 Traverse in either direction
CA	CACharlie’s Arête, V4	V4	0
P1 Hueco V4 Climb the right side of the arête to jug.
KK	KKKaloo Kalay, V0	V0	0
P1 Hueco V0 The tricky groove to the ledge.
PW	PWPlumley Walker Spur, V8	V8	0
P1 Hueco V8 The arête. Painful holds, nasty plunge. It’s just not cricket.
	Huka Falls, V6	V6	0
P1 Hueco V6 Start with the big left-hand side-pull.
54	54Studio 54, V5	V5	0
P1 Hueco V5 Beautiful sequence. Dynamic moves up the buttress.
S-B	S-BStraining – Busted Bicycle, V5	V5	0
P1 Hueco V5 Traverse in either direction.
IC	ICI C Lightning U C Crack, V8	V8	0
P1 Hueco V8 The clean face and arête to the obvious large crack.
TO	TOTurn On Tune In Drop Off, V4	V4	0
P1 Hueco V4 At least to the mid-height jugs.
KA	KAWhen the Kat’s Away, V5	V5	0
P1 Hueco V5 Stay in the right-hand groove all the way to the ledge.
MS	MSMelquaides start, V3	V3	0
P1 Hueco V3 Climb start of route to hand-jam and flat hold.
Za	ZaZephania, V6	V6	0
P1 Hueco V6 Dynamic moves up the arête.
TI	TITowering Inferno, V1	V1	0
P1 Hueco V1 To the first small ledge
S-O	S-OSpanish Moon – Orangutang, V6	V6	0
P1 Hueco V6 This traverse can be made in either direction.
SO	SOStraight Out of Clapton, V6	V6	0
P1 Hueco V6 Up to the holes.
SS	SSSilver Surfer, V5	V5	0
P1 Hueco V5 The first few moves.
	’it Man, V1	V1	0
P1 Hueco V1 The thin crack on the short separate face 5 m down and to the right, in the trees.

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