Bouldering (Long Side) (CLOSED)

(52 routes)

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE - see access notes.

Just as there is a surprising amount of climb-ing packed into the tight grooves of the Quarry, there is plenty of bouldering too.Listed here is a selection of the classic problems (and projects).

Type: 
Wall
Access: 

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE. NZAC Auckland section is working with the school to reach a solution. Please DO NOT CLIMB OR BOULDER at the long side.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Lm Ghost Face V12
0
Previously known as the Leftism Project. One of the ‘last great problems’ at the Quarry, climb the face only . . . left of the Bop Gun arête.
Cliff Li, 2012
LT The Long Side Traverse V8
0
The complete Long Side traverse from Orangutang to Bop Gun is an impressive achievement. First completed right-to-left, to finish up Bop Gun for a great finale. It has also been done left-to-right (FA Danny Wood), and there-and-back! (FA Troy Stevenson).
Tony Ward-Holmes, August 1991
BG Bop Gun V3
0
The steep highball rib with a committing move to the ledge.
Charlie Creese, February 1981
Ds Deffust direct start V1
0
To the first horizontal break without using the right arete.
M-B Moral Dilemma – The Blam V6
0
KK Kamikaze Krack V0
0
Climb until your hands are at the ledge on the left
YF Yuppie Floosie start V2
0
Climb shallow buttress to small edge on left.
Ss Supergroove start V4
0
Climb start of Supergroove to small horizontal break.
PP Perennial Pipedreams V4
0
start — to the horizontal break on the right rib
SA Scott’s Arête V9
0
Start with LH in Perennial Pipedreams crack, and climb the arête.
Scott Mooney
BB Blam, Blam, Blam V6
0
The first few moves, up and across
BP Boulevard Périphérique V4
0
Campus traverse (no feet) from the bottom of Dalrymple’s Groove to the edge of Thunderpussy.
Colin Pohl, 1994
Tp Thunderpussy V3
0
Start up the arete to the break.
GG Green Groove V1
0
Up the groove to the blast hole and step left.
G-B Green Groove – Bodysnatcher V7
0
A low traverse.
LM Livesay Madness V3
0
Up Wild Gravity to the ledges and thenright, staying at that height and down LegsThis Wide.
Kevin Livesay
Zd Zillmerised V8
0
The leaning, sloping arête underneath Wild Gravity and Sneak Easy.
Roland Foster, April 1992
ST Short Traverse V3
0
This long, moderate traverse fromBodysnatcher to Momrath can be done ineither direction and has its moments.
Me Methadone V9
0
Face only right of Bodysnatcher start, up to small ledge on right
Glenn Erik Johannessen
Hs Heat start V3
0
Climb the initial buttress to the jugs
Wd Wired V3
0
Start to the ledges on the right, and back down the start of Black Stump.
MA Manic Arête V4
0
The arête between Wired and Black Stump.
Sb Superbitch V6
0
Climb the left side of the arête only, without using holds on the right of the arête or the left crack.
Steve Conn
Sg Silver Airman groove V2
0
Up the groove, straight to the ledge or exiting right.
Sb Silver Airman buttress V1
0
Climb the buttress and mantle the top.
MP Maisola Party V2
0
To the hold on the arete on the right
Mh Momrath V0
0
Momrath V0 Up the grey wall from the left or the right.
AT Ampitheatre Traverse V6
0
From the Momrath ledge to Shoes ThisHigh. Or vice versa.
AB Another Broken Hero V5
0
Climb to the blast hole and escape off left.
Ku Kaikansu V6
0
The arete, without using the crack on the left or moving right at the top.
ZL Zorn’s Lemma V5
0
As far as the first bolt.
SH Shoes This High V2
0
The groove or arete, to the ledge on the right.
RL Revenge of the Lawn left V0
0
Up the left-hand groove to the ledge.
RR Revenge of the Lawn right VM
0
Up the right-hand groove to the ledge.
Be Banshee V1
0
The thin crack, exiting left at or below the ledge.
B-D Banshee – Diddely Dick V4
0
Traverse in either direction
CA Charlie’s Arête V4
0
Climb the right side of the arête to jug.
KK Kaloo Kalay V0
0
The tricky groove to the ledge.
PW Plumley Walker Spur V8
0
The arête. Painful holds, nasty plunge. It’s just not cricket.
Tony Ward-Holmes, September 1991
Huka Falls V6
0
Start with the big left-hand side-pull.
54 Studio 54 V5
0
Beautiful sequence. Dynamic moves up the buttress.
Charlie Creese, September 1981
S-B Straining – Busted Bicycle V5
0
Traverse in either direction.
IC I C Lightning U C Crack V8
0
The clean face and arête to the obvious large crack.
Glenn Erik Johannessen
TO Turn On Tune In Drop Off V4
0
At least to the mid-height jugs.
KA When the Kat’s Away V5
0
Stay in the right-hand groove all the way to the ledge.
Alex Palman, November 1988
MS Melquaides start V3
0
Climb start of route to hand-jam and flat hold.
Za Zephania V6
0
Dynamic moves up the arête.
Roland Foster, 1991
TI Towering Inferno V1
0
To the first small ledge
S-O Spanish Moon – Orangutang V6
0
This traverse can be made in either direction.
SO Straight Out of Clapton V6
0
Up to the holes.
SS Silver Surfer V5
0
The first few moves.
’it Man V1
0
The thin crack on the short separate face 5 m down and to the right, in the trees.
Marty Beare, August 1982