Descriptions from R to L. The approach from The Monument saddle takes almost an hour, and the path leads to the RH end. The rock is excellent, up to 20m high, and many of the routes worthwhile. There are descents are either end of the cliff.
At the very RH end of the cliff is a laid back corner, just L of the short fence.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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No Strain At The Strainer, 11 | 11 | ||||||
Climb the RH edge of the slab, awkward move at the top. Clip the fence for gear! |
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Starting Point, 11 | 11 | ||||||
Start at the foot of the corner. Climb up and gain the wide crack on the L. |
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Y Fronts, 13 | 13 | ||||||
On a separate piece of rock is a groove below an earthquake breakout. Climb the groove to the fresh rock step right slightly to exit. An alternative finish goes left. |
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Vanishing Point, 16 | 16 | ||||||
15m to the L is an easy-angled arete. Up this, then directly up to walk off, or unprotected finish up top slab (16). |
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Crack Addict, 18 | 18 | ||||||
The slightly warped crack with a bush low down, and right of prominent yellow lichen. A left finish was lost when the top block fell off in the 2011 earthquakes. |
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The Celtic Trail, 16 | 16 | ||||||
Climb the corner system 5m to the L, best reached by the broad rib on the L. |
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Little Red Book, 21 | 21 | ||||||
To the L is a face with a L-R curving crack high up. Climb to the curve, move R (crux) to foot of vertical crack and follow. The slabby section is protected by brass wires; don’t miss the small wire placement above the curve. |
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Black Flies, 22 | 22 | ||||||
Just L again is a curved crack behind a bush. Climb the crack with a move L onto the face, to ledge. Follow continuation of crack , crux move at top. |
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Luna Rossa, 18 | 18 | ||||||
Start at the foot of Black Flies, and climb LW up slab to stance on the arete below large bulge. Move up and R to ledge, then LW up poorly protected slab to finish through bulge R of shrub. |
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Black Magic, 20 | 20 | ||||||
3m L is an undercut corner, leading to a small triangular OH at 3m. Climb corner to a metre below OH, then commit LW for 3m along ledge to gain wide crack. Follow this to grassy ledge, move LW’s under triangular OH, and up to bulge by bush.Mantleshelf up and R onto prow above triangular OH, and the top. |
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Stir Fries, 17 | 17 | ||||||
A corner with a large patch of bush lawyer at the base. Navigate the bush lawyer, then up the corner and left around a triangular roof. Follow the crack curving left, through an overhang, and exit up the right-leaning crack. |
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Beyond The Pale, 21 | 21 | ||||||
To the L is a bush lawyer corner. A few metres L again is an OH with a crack trending up and R. Gain and follow crack (crux), traverse L to the rib.Continue up past ledge, through roof crack and hand crack to skyline notch. |
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The Wok Woute, 20 | 20 | ||||||
The next route starts around the low angled rib to the L. Gain the slab using tree, and continue up to ledge. At the next bulge traverse out L using the R to L rising crack, and step across to gully. Move and R under OH to short overhanging crack. Up this & easier to the top. |
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Fish Tales, 17 | 17 | ||||||
Just L is a corner. Climb the LH side, through the pod, and up to exit LW. |
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Fretwork, 17 | 17 | ||||||
Behind the vegetation. Climb up and right to the arete. Continue up crack system past a fern to overhang. Awkward moves left past two jammed blocks to the top. |
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Old Billy Boy, 24 | 24 | ||||||
Crack up orange wall just to the L. |
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My Dog Has Fleas, 21 | 21 | ||||||
Start two metres left of OBB to triangular hole and thin cracks, moving left below prow. Finish up overhanging hand crack. |
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Welfare Mothers, 19 | 19 | ||||||
Start 6m L by undercut. Boulder over bulge to crack, continue RW up slab to finish up corner crack. |
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Make Better Lovers, 18 | 18 | ||||||
Start at LH end of undercut, by pointed block. Onto the edge of the slab, over rib to L of bush (clip!), then commit up the wall past white lichen patch, with good wires. |
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Pleasure Cruise, 18 | 18 | ||||||
Start 3m L, under trees. Up V groove, L at bulge, then step up and R to the arete & the top. |
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The Flenser, 20 | 20 | 0m | |||||
To the left is an overhang at 7m. Just left of this is a broad slabby rib. Climb the arete at the right-hand side of the rib, then move right past shrub to the base of the large overhang with stacked blocks. Pull through these (not loose) then through the corner and crack to skyline notch. |
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Fushia Legend, 18 | 18 | ||||||
Just to the L is a corner and bulge, with a bush above. Climb the corner and crack, then the committing bulge R of the bush. |
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Supernatural, 18 | 18 | 0m | |||||
Start behind trees in a deeply recessed corner with vegetation, including a broadleaf tree ten metres up. Move past the triangular overhang to the wall and slab on the right, and across the slab to the right side and up. |
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The Curate’s Egg, 19 | 19 | 0m | |||||
15m left is a corner capped by a huge overhang. Start down and right of the overhang, and follow the jam crack leading up and left onto the right-hand side of the corner. Up the jagged crack. |
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Crack In The Sky, 17 | 17 | ||||||
Up dirty brown corner past tree (useful runner), left under diamond roof to finish up crack on right. Excellent rock but would be improved by cleaning the crack. |
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The Exultant Dwarf, 20 | 20 | 0m | |||||
10m left is an obvious roof with crack. Start down and left of roof. Climb large detached ground-level flake, move right into V-groove and climb until level with roof. Step right under roof and up. Custom built for the shorter climber. Alternative start is directly below roof, up on edges, then move left into groove. |
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Cold Shoulder, 22 | 22 | ||||||
Into the V groove groove as for The Exultant Dwarf, continue on to finish up the deceptive corner. |
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Cold Feet, 16 | 16 | ||||||
Follow Cold Shoulder to the shrub, move L 3m and up short crack. |
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The Piltdown Man, 18 | 18 | ||||||
To the L, before the cliff petres out. Up a corner with thin crack, then vertical crack to the top. |