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Shadowland

Grade
27
Natural pro required
Quality
3
First ascent
Craig Jefferies, Paul Rogers, Jan 2003.
Located on
Sinbad Gully Wall
Topo ref
3
  1. 21, 25m. Climb the steep clean face behind a large block using the flake
    crack. Steep moves lead to a hand traverse right, then into a steep
    left-facing corner.
  2. 20, 30m. A grassy groove on the right leads to a left-facing corner flake.
    Ascend this ‘til the flake leads you across to the obvious left-facing
    corner; this leads to a big ledge and belay.
  3. 23, 20m. Climb the left-leaning crack/layback on fingerlocks and lay-aways
    using wires and CDs (friends to 2.5) and four bolts to a hanging belay.
  4. 27-A2, 20m. The overhanging wall left of the belay leads to a left-leaning
    corner; mostly bolts with the odd wire and small cam.
  5. A2, 15m. Climb the steep wall above the belay past four bolts ‘til easy
    climbing traverses left to a ledge with a single bolt belay; some wires and
    small CDs.
  6. A1, 35m. The Thunder Bolt Crack. Move left and climb flakes and
    left-facing corner to a recessed groove. Exit the groove on the right and
    move up and right to a grassy ledge and belay; full rack of CDs to #4 and
    wires.
  7. A1, 40m. Above the belay is a left-facing corner which steps dramatically
    towards a roof; take extra wires and CDs to #3.
  8. A2+, 10m. A short pitch from the hanging belay, cranking through the roof
    and steeply up to a more comfortable hanging belay!
  9. A3, 15m. The chimney above provides the steepest climbing while breaching
    the headwall: good to have big CDs and a complete rack.
  10. A2, 40m. Stunning clean groove leads to more vertical climbing on
    Labyrinth-like buckets. Exit the groove then tend right and up, stepping
    round the arête to a belay ledge on the right; full rack required with
    CD’s to #4.
  11. Unclimbed...possible grade 20. Either move back left and climb the
    grooved arête to the top or climb the ledge system above the belay, tending
    right ‘til a shallow corner takes you to easy ground.
  • P1
  • 27
  • Trad

Follow a series of overhanging cracks on the right-hand side of the wall; a committing route on immaculate rock.

Comments
Attribution
Craig Jefferies
UUID
 
b46f322f-f447-40f4-8f28-4f7763cf3ac8