Te Oka

The first route on the crag, there is a hanging groove-come-chimney that stars off a ledge at 3.5 m. Gain a standing position on the ledge below an overhanging chimney that is formed by the columns, start using undercuts on the right that enable you to get up into the chimney and climb it with difficulty. Exit the chimney slightly right to gain a standing position on a ledge. Move up to the bulging roof above and surmount this on good holds and a chain belay on the wall above.

To the left of the previous route is a steepening black rib that fans out into a wall. Start on the right side of the black rib. Angle right at the top to the chain belay of Grumble and Grunt. Could use a re-bolt.

The Martin Clarke project subsequently climbed by Pat Deavoll, the route takes the left arete formed by the second obvious groove-come-chimney. Start in the groove and use it to make as much height as possible before you're forced out left onto the arete proper. Continue the steep wall with what feels like a long run-out to get to the fourth bolt. Hard moves past the fourth bolt lead to a ledge, another bolt and somewhere to stand before you go off in search of the belay. Incidentally the belay is just over the rounded roof above your head. 5 bolts.

Moving left, the next obvious feature is a recessed white wall bounded on its right by a steep corner and capped by a bulging roof. Climb the groove, an effort in itself, but there is a good rest at the fourth bolt. Continue up the hanging arete until your way is barred by the roof, which is avoided by moving right and finishing as for Last Night of the Poms.

Takes the obvious crack line at the left side of the white wall (the first bolt is missing). Start to the right of the crack in a subsidiary crack, move back left at what would be the second bolt. Climb the crack with difficulty, mainly because the crack's no use. A sort of rest can be taken at the roof before you finish up the hanging groove round the left side of the roof. Pat Deavoll

Start in the groove about two metres left of “Mars Attacks”, easy first clip. Dynamic or reachy moves lead to a huge jug and the second bolt. Awkward moves round the bulge on small holds get you to the third bolt and some sloping holds. Move right then up to gain a sort of rest in a short sentry box, bolt runner. Swing out right onto the arete and move up on good holds to the bulging black roof and two more bolt placements. Strenuous moves over the bulge on the left get you onto the hanging slab and a move right leads to the belay of “Mars Attacks”. Tony Burnell

The first route of the Renaissance,bolted and climbed in a day. Start about one metre right of the boulder on the track below the long groove with bolts in its left wall. The route takes the line of least resistance up the centre of the cliff trending left. Climb the groove past three bolts to a point where you are forced onto the left wall; move up the wall on reasonable holds until you can quit the groove round to the left to gain a standing position on a bulge, bolt runner. Move left again and up to the roof, bolt runner, then swing left through the bulge into an easy-angled groove. Move up, then out right to gain the exposed rib past another bolt to a chain belay.

Start as for Wanderlust, up the groove and move left round the face onto the sloping ledge. Above you and slightly right under the roof to poor undercuts and layaways; above is a hanging crack come lay back with a good edge. Make some powerful moves round the bulge onto good incut holds. Pull up into the corner groove above, follow the groove past two bolt runners til you can move out left to the belay of Wanderlust.

The old unclimbed Phil de Joux line towards the left side of the crag, climbed and extended to the top of the crag. Start easily off the ground into a groove/corner. Climb past two bolts before moving out right on small holds to gain a sloping edge on the left and a good hold on the right, up again to good holds and the third bolt. Continue easily up the bulging wall via a crack on the left and onto the half way ledge. Move left and up the steepening wall on reasonable holds to the last and hidden blot before gaining the hanging corner and a chain belay.

The first route recorded on the crag (1994). The bulging wall is steeper than it looks, with a ledge out right level with the third bolt.

Start on the ledge and surmount the bulge above using the prominent, jagged crack. Dubious holds, dubious gear. No bolts, in situ rap sling.

Start five metres right of Child's Play below a groove with a small shrub. Climb the groove to a V-corner capped with some jammed blocks. Surmount the roof on the left and continue straight up. No bolts, no belay.

Start six metres right of Supernatural and climb the left-facing corner. Climb the cornerand step right, continue up over the bulge to exit up easier ground on the right. No bolts, no belay.