North West Ridge

Access onto the ridge varies. Starting from Katies Col, ascents have been made on the northern side of the lower buttress (the first ascent in 1907) and up the ridge itself from the col. The easiest routes, though, involve skirting round onto the snowfields above the Balfour Glacier and either ascending a snow slope onto the ridge above the first step, or ascending the first prominent rib falling south-west from the ridge. Then follow the winding arête and rock steps to the summit.