Gledhill Buttress

Type

Face

Part of

Nazomi

The Gledhill Buttress is probably the best rock climbing real estate in the Hooker valley.

Aspect

West

Approach

Access via the Noeline Glacier has its fair collection of objective hazards in the form of ice cliffs, rock fall, and glacial manoeuvres.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
	Castle McDermott, IV,5,17	IV,5,17	0m	1.02
Start up the toe of the Buttress and move left into the corner after 20m. Continue up the corner then through the middle of the upper slabs to traverse back right to cross the roof line in the upper wall. The party mistook this for the Gledhill Buttress. P1 17 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Technical) 5
3.101	3.101Gledhill Buttress, IV,5,17	IV,5,17	0m	1.02
The most popular option (used on the first ascent, 101i on topo) starts up the obvious corner. Continue up the corner for about four pitches, then choose a route up the upper slabs, weaving back and forth as necessary to bypass overhangs (crux 16-17 depending on routefinding). There are many variations on the upper third of the buttress. P1 17 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Technical) 5
3.101	3.101Gledhill Buttress Direct, IV,5,18	IV,5,18	0m	0
A direct variation to Gledhill Buttress heads straight up the prow on compact rock (101ii on topo), easing back for the upper portion. P1 18 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Technical) 5
3.102	3.102Terminator, IV,6,19	IV,6,19	0m	1.02
A staunch route on excellent rock. Climb the first two pitches of the Gledhill Direct, then after the climbing eases slightly head out right on a hanging ramp (great fun) to climb through the prominent overhang right of the prow. Continue straight up through another overhang to re-join the Direct where it eases back. P1 19 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Technical) 6
	Variant, IV,4+,14	IV,4+,14	0m	0
Start 70m right of the Gledhill Buttress near a waterfall. Climb face to overhang, then up groove and steep gully, and follow a rib to the top. Excellent rock. Possibly involves the Tom and Bill Route. P1 14 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Technical) 4+
3.103	3.103Tom and Bill, IV,4+,16	IV,4+,16	0m	0
Climbs the prow of the next buttress to the right of the main Gledhill Buttress, with ledges halfway. Limited protection. The final 200m before the summit eases back. P1 16 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Technical) 4+