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Wicks Col

Type
Pass
Altitude
2214m

Wicks Col has historically been the most commonly used route to the Horace Walker névé.
Christopher Johnson, Scott Russell and Archie Scott crossed Wicks Col in January 1935, crossing from the Douglas valley to the Copland valley via Blizzard Peak and Welcome Pass (in a blizzard).

Lat/lon
-43.67604,169.95447, NZ Topo Map
Approach

Horace Walker Hut to Wicks Col – Dave’s Route (route 15E, grade II, 1)
This is a satisfyingly sneaky route involving few difficulties (David Eaton, 2005). From the hut, travel up the Horace Walker valley to the top of the large flat, then pick a line up the bouldery slopes to the east to reach a prominent shoulder at 1840m (BX15 531 600).
Alternatively, to reach the shoulder more directly from the hut, a tussock spur beginning 500m north of the hut can be used (climbing through BX15 525 590), but care is required to avoid scrub and greasy slabs in the lower 200m.
From the 1840m shoulder, ascend on a rising traverse around the northern side of Pt 2192m, climbing towards Pioneer Peak up to 2200m, then sidle to Wicks Col.

Horace Walker Hut to Wicks Col via Wicks Glacier (route 15F, grade Il, 1+)
Shrinking of the Wicks Glacier is making this route more difficult around the lower glacier and directly below Wicks Col itself.
The ascent can begin anywhere between the hut and the downstream end of Douglas Lake, but make sure you find a good corridor through the scrub below 1100m.
If the weather is fine, the tussock above the scrub provides a very scenic bivvy spot.
There are bare slabs below the Wicks Glacier in most seasons. These are not steep, but would be unpleasant when wet. A narrow lead of snow right under the bluffs south of Pioneer Peak seems to hold on until at least midsummer, and usually provides the most straightforward access on and off the glacier.
The glacier can be fairly crevassed below about 2000m – some zig-zagging will be required after early summer. The upper glacier provides straightforward travel to Wicks Col. There can be a large bergschrund below the col, in which case a higher col to the east may offer an easier route off the glacier.

Accessed from
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Comments
Attribution
ATP 2018 (Rob Frost)
UUID
 
5a29f9f7-d96b-406b-8b81-0de5c1561517