Taniwha

This route is a fully-bolted sport climb, but access, length and grade give it a serious edge. Expect a competent and fit party to spend most of the day approaching, climbing and descending the route. Take two 50m ropes, ascenders or prussics, 18 quickdraws, two long runners, helmets, P1: (30m, 19) Up and left on a slab to the base of an obvious corner. P2: (20m, 21) Nice moves up the white corner until it blanks: then go left to a spacious belay. P3: (12m, 24) Left up a steep bulge. Find the undercling, go left and then back right to the anchor. P4: (23m, 22) A steep slab to begin, then angle up left around exposed hanging corners to the anchor. P5: (15m, 24) Angle up right in a steep corner, then round/over the bulging roof on pockets to the anchor. This is abseil station 3 and the first easy way off the route if you need to bail. P6: (24m, 24) Left and up a tricky white corner, and on to a steep, pocketed black face. P7: (15m, 19) Angle up and right through grassy clumps and a corner to the anchor on a slab. P8: (35m, 23) Tricky climbing up the buttress through overlaps to a hanging corner, and then up right. Abseil station 2 is about 10m left. It is possible to climb over to this station from pitches 7 and 8. P9: (40m, 23) Left up steep rock, angling right past a big bulge and exposed moves to finish at the Getting Off Ledge. From here, it is possible to jug 10m up ancient fixed lines (be warned) through the bush to a luxurious and spacious dry bivy (Heaven) at the base of the next cliff above. Back yourself up with a lead rope for this option. Otherwise, have a happy and safe descent! Descent: Two 50m ropes are needed. It takes about two hours to the bottom of the route. It is recommended that the first person down back clip the first 2–3 bolts on the steepest abseils. Abseil 1: (40m) Straight down to station 2, 10m left of the belay anchors for pitch 8. Abseil 2: (40m) Straight down again to a stance on black rock. Abseil 3: (42m) A free hanging rappel straight down to the top of pitch 5. Abseil 4: (50m) Another free hanging rap straight down to a hanging station. Caution! Ensure your ropes are tied together so you do not abseil off the ends. Take care swinging into the stance. Abseil 5: (43m) Diagonal down and right to the base of the route. Abseil 6: Down the fixed ropes back into the bush.