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Mr Clean Wall

Type
Sector
Part of
Lyttelton Rock
Aspect
South
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
BT BTDrop Out, 21 21 6
0
  • P1
  • 21
  • 6

Start as for Bombs Away to the second bolt, traverse left to the arête. Climb the arête past four bolts to its highest point; belay as for DTB.

BA BABombs Away, 22 22 3
1.02
  • P1
  • 22
  • 3
  • Trad

Not as slabby as it looks – very steep in fact. Start in bushes at left. A few desperate tree moves allow rock contact and bring the first bolt within clipping distance (pro available before the first bolt), tricky moves lead up to next bolt, an easier section follows. The headwall is tricky but pumped arms can be rested at the obvious rest. Double bolt belay over the top and back a bit.
DTB DTBDrop the Bomb, 26 26 0m 2
0
  • P1
  • 26
  • 2
  • Trad

The deceptively steep groove right of Bombs Away. Up past the bolts, then up crack line and right at the top.

 How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bomb, 27 27 4
2.01

Start up Drop the Bomb, climb crux to good jug (and a cam if you want). Span right to great pocket and bolt then head up and right wards to 'the edge' on Clip or Fly. Finish up this route.

  • P1
  • 27
  • 4
 Dr Strangelove, 31 31 14m 6
2.01

Starts to the right of Drop the Bomb. Climb the vague arête and head right to the knee bar on Clip or Fly and finish on this route.

  • P1
  • 31
  • 14m
  • 6
CF CFClip or Fly, 24 24 4
1.02
  • P1
  • 24
  • 4
  • Trad

The prow left of Scratching Julius. Shares the same start.
SJ SJScratching Julius, 21 21
2.01
  • P1
  • 21
  • Trad

The obvious steep crack at the left end of the face. Technically only grade 17 climbing, but extremely sustained and powerful. Finish straight up (although R is easier). Good pro. Bolt chain belay at top of Bombs Away.
FA FAFilet of Arnold, 25 25 4
3
  • P1
  • 25
  • 4

Pumpy climbing on good spaced holds. Four bolts.
 Stars of Arnold, 25 25 0m 3
1.02
  • P1
  • 25
  • 3
  • Trad

Climb Stars and Stripes until established on top of the flake and then cut left to join Fillet of Arnold at its third bolt. A link-up, but good all the same.

 Stars and Stripes, 23 23 19m 2
1.02
  • P1
  • 23
  • 19m
  • 2
  • Trad

The weakness 3m R of Scratching Julius. An old aid climb. Follow the crack past a bolt to a wire fixed to one of the old aid bolts. Move around L and up the crack line. Continue to top.

MC MCGetting Rid of Mr Clean, 23 23 19m 3
3
  • P1
  • 23
  • 19m
  • 3

Better than a work out at the gym. Strenuous and pumping. Start as for previous climb, but at the fixed wire continue straight up the wall to a further bolt protecting the top section. Bolt and chain anchor.
CK CKCitizen Kane, 22 22 1
2.01
  • P1
  • 22
  • 1
  • Trad

The obvious crack line R of Mr Clean. A bolt at the start protects the crux, which is followed by a pump to the top. Good pro – though hanging around to get it in can be fun. Strenuous, so go fast. Has been top-roped by John Chambers in 52 seconds. Current record held by Lucas Larraman in 46 seconds.

 Citizenfour, 26 26 5
0

Route to the right of Citizen Kane. Span between the arêtes and head to jug and easier climbing to the Citizen Kane Anchor. Easiest to pre-place second draw.

  • P1
  • 26
  • 5
 Tupping Cecil, 20 20 16m
0
  • P1
  • 20
  • 16m
  • Trad

The line to the R of Citizen Kane. Sustained, with good pro.
 Hornets Nest, 14 14
0
  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

Just left of the descent gully.

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This place appears in
Rock Deluxe South, 2014
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UUID
 
4458ae1c-ec28-42e2-b5ac-c6969945e5ed