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The Abbess

Type
Altitude
2607m
Part of

tba

Lat/lon
-43.674314,170.290565, NZ Topo Map
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 North West Face, II,2+ II,2+ 0m
0

From the Monk Glacier, climb a couloir/gully to the summit. First climbed from the Murchison valley via Abbey Pass. In 1953 C S Brockett and party climbed the ridge from Pinnacle Stream.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Technical) 2+

 South East Ridge, III,4,15 III,4,15 0m
0

Follow ramps west of the ridge base to gain a wide chimney. Continue on good rock and loose ledges up the ridge, deviating west as required. Climb 4 pitches of 13-15 through a large pyramid shaped slab at c2000m trending east till a traverse on the east side ends at a col behind the pyramid with a good bivvy ledge. Follow the west side of the ridge till it turns west and the glacier is reached. Climb exposed grade 13-15 on good rock then gain summit via loose slopes and the ridge from the south. Straightforward descent off the NW face. A long fun route on mostly good rock. Around 10 pitches.


  • P1
  • 15
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Technical) 4

Comments
Attribution
Alex Palman
UUID
 
e60a949e-4215-47ae-8b82-5aa3fa90c473